After arriving at Atuona last Monday we have been so busy (read: enjoying ourselves) that we have neglected the blog.
Monday was a public holiday in Atuona so the Gendarmes would not handle the paper work to clear us in – come back tomorrow – what a wonderfully relaxed way of life these Marquisans have. We explored the village and found a cafe and bar called “Cafe Make Make” in which to sample the local beer, and what delightfully refreshing beer they make (brewed in Papeete). Our local agent had recommended Alex’s for dinner so at the appointed time we met Alex in his four wheel drive and proceeded to drive in low range straight up the side of the mountain to the west of the harbour, arriving at a three level house half way up with magnificent panoramic views of the harbour. Drinks and dinner were served and we met some interesting locals including fishermen, cabinet makers, artists and a guitar maker whose playing entertained us during the evening.
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Tuesday was reprovision day which was adequately achieved at the well stocked local supermarkets opposite each other in the village main street. We even bought a gas bottle filled with 19 kilograms of butane at the supermarket, which we have used to replenish Salacia’s gas supply with plenty to spare for the next several fills. We will have to return for diesel fuel because the paperwork to facilitate the purchase takes several days to process.
Wednesday saw a 9 nm motor to Baie Hanamoenoa on Tahuata Island which is SW of Hiva Oa. The bay was beautiful with crystal clear turquoise water and a white sandy beach backed by a forest of coconut palms. We snorkelled in the warm water along the rocky headland out from the beach, observing the greatest variety of brilliantly coloured fish and sea urchins that we’ve seen so far. This was a very relaxing place to spend the night. This bay was rated by Eric Hiscok as one of the three most beautiful anchorages in Polynesia.
Photo 3: Baie Hanamoenoa
Photo 4: Breakfast at Baie Hanamoenoa
Next day a short motor south brought us to the main village in Baie Vaitahu where we attempted to anchor, but the swell and rapidly shelving bottom made it very difficult to secure our anchor and landing the dinghy would have been dangerous, to say the least. Interestingly it was in this bay that the first European visitors disembarked: the Spaniard Mendana in 1595 followed by James Cook in 1774. It was also the site where, in 1842, Admiral Dupetit-Thouars signed the treaty linking the archipelago to France. Up anchor and another short 1.5 nm motor to Baie Hapatoni where we anchored successfully just outside the tiny protected dinghy harbour. Ashore here we found a sleepy village with a well maintained church and cemetery built alongside the ancient ruins of huge stone platforms called Maeae which were reserved for use by the High Chieftains of a past Polynesian Civilisation. The big Bruce anchor and 70 metres of chain held us firmly in place during a night which was punctuated by fierce westerly squalls making the rocky shore of Hapatoni a lee shore.
Photo 5: Salacia at Hapatoni
This was also the time that we commissioned the breadmaker. It was a great success.
Photo 6: First loaf from Breadmaker.
It’s Friday and we are anchored in Baie Hanavave in Fatu Hiva – the most beautiful anchorage yet in the Marquesas – very steep mountains all around with green tropical vegetation and coconut palms extending high up the lower slopes. We left Baie Hapatoni on Tahuata Island at 0600 local time and anchored here shortly after 1200, after a pleasant sail of just over 40 nautical miles. The shelter here on the west coast is excellent in the easterly winds and we share the bay with 12 other yachts.
It has been rumoured that the bay was originally named “Bay des Verges” (Bay of the Phalli) by early explorers because of the shape of the rocky pillars. Supposedly the missionaries disapproved, and inserted an “i” making it “Bay des Vierges” which translates to Bay of Virgins.
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Photo 7: Baie Hanavave
No sooner were we here than we were invited to a BBQ lunch at a local house in the rainforest, with other yachties, including our friends from Brisbane on “Meander”, who had just arrived today after a 20 day passage from the Galapagos. Jack, the host, cooked filleted chicken on a wire frame over a fire in a 200 litre drum cut in half, and simply used a piece of corrugated iron for shelter during a brief tropical downpour. The chicken was delicious and the local hospitality very friendly.
It is now Saturday morning and after a good night’s sleep in this secure anchorage, we have to face another tough day in the Marquises.
All well on Salacia
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