First 5 days in Marquises.

Photo 1: Approach to Hiva Oa at dawn

After arriving at Atuona last Monday we have been so busy (read: enjoying ourselves) that we have neglected the blog.

Monday was a public holiday in Atuona so the Gendarmes would not handle the paper work to clear us in – come back tomorrow – what a wonderfully relaxed way of life these Marquisans have. We explored the village and found a cafe and bar called “Cafe Make Make” in which to sample the local beer, and what delightfully refreshing beer they make (brewed in Papeete). Our local agent had recommended Alex’s for dinner so at the appointed time we met Alex in his four wheel drive and proceeded to drive in low range straight up the side of the mountain to the west of the harbour, arriving at a three level house half way up with magnificent panoramic views of the harbour. Drinks and dinner were served and we met some interesting locals including fishermen, cabinet makers, artists and a guitar maker whose playing entertained us during the evening.

Photo 2: Salacia in Baie Tahauku (Atuona)

Tuesday was reprovision day which was adequately achieved at the well stocked local supermarkets opposite each other in the village main street. We even bought a gas bottle filled with 19 kilograms of butane at the supermarket, which we have used to replenish Salacia’s gas supply with plenty to spare for the next several fills. We will have to return for diesel fuel because the paperwork to facilitate the purchase takes several days to process.

Wednesday saw a 9 nm motor to Baie Hanamoenoa on Tahuata Island which is SW of Hiva Oa. The bay was beautiful with crystal clear turquoise water and a white sandy beach backed by a forest of coconut palms. We snorkelled in the warm water along the rocky headland out from the beach, observing the greatest variety of brilliantly coloured fish and sea urchins that we’ve seen so far. This was a very relaxing place to spend the night. This bay was rated by Eric Hiscok as one of the three most beautiful anchorages in Polynesia.

Photo 3: Baie Hanamoenoa

Photo 4: Breakfast at Baie Hanamoenoa

Next day a short motor south brought us to the main village in Baie Vaitahu where we attempted to anchor, but the swell and rapidly shelving bottom made it very difficult to secure our anchor and landing the dinghy would have been dangerous, to say the least. Interestingly it was in this bay that the first European visitors disembarked: the Spaniard Mendana in 1595 followed by James Cook in 1774. It was also the site where, in 1842, Admiral Dupetit-Thouars signed the treaty linking the archipelago to France. Up anchor and another short 1.5 nm motor to Baie Hapatoni where we anchored successfully just outside the tiny protected dinghy harbour. Ashore here we found a sleepy village with a well maintained church and cemetery built alongside the ancient ruins of huge stone platforms called Maeae which were reserved for use by the High Chieftains of a past Polynesian Civilisation. The big Bruce anchor and 70 metres of chain held us firmly in place during a night which was punctuated by fierce westerly squalls making the rocky shore of Hapatoni a lee shore.

Photo 5: Salacia at Hapatoni

This was also the time that we commissioned the breadmaker. It was a great success.

Photo 6: First loaf from Breadmaker.

It’s Friday and we are anchored in Baie Hanavave in Fatu Hiva – the most beautiful anchorage yet in the Marquesas – very steep mountains all around with green tropical vegetation and coconut palms extending high up the lower slopes. We left Baie Hapatoni on Tahuata Island at 0600 local time and anchored here shortly after 1200, after a pleasant sail of just over 40 nautical miles. The shelter here on the west coast is excellent in the easterly winds and we share the bay with 12 other yachts.

It has been rumoured that the bay was originally named “Bay des Verges” (Bay of the Phalli) by early explorers because of the shape of the rocky pillars. Supposedly the missionaries disapproved, and inserted an “i” making it “Bay des Vierges” which translates to Bay of Virgins.

Photo 7: Baie Hanavave

No sooner were we here than we were invited to a BBQ lunch at a local house in the rainforest, with other yachties, including our friends from Brisbane on “Meander”, who had just arrived today after a 20 day passage from the Galapagos. Jack, the host, cooked filleted chicken on a wire frame over a fire in a 200 litre drum cut in half, and simply used a piece of corrugated iron for shelter during a brief tropical downpour. The chicken was delicious and the local hospitality very friendly.

It is now Saturday morning and after a good night’s sleep in this secure anchorage, we have to face another tough day in the Marquises.

All well on Salacia

We Have Arrived

"Salacia" arrived at Hiva Oa in the Marquesas Islands at daybreak today, 15 days since we left the Galapagos.

We are very happy to have done the 3000 n miles in 15 days considering that we have had relatively light conditions. It was very satisfying for Hiva Oa to appear beside us with the dawn. It certainly was a fairy tale trip. We couldn't have asked for better wind and sea conditions.

This was our longest single ocean passage, surpassing the Fremantle to Bali Race and return.

We celebrated our arrival with delightful lunch, good cheer and phone calls to loved ones at home as we overlooked this gorgeous panorama.

"Salacia" continues to delight. She is another J Thoroughbred and is everything that we have dreamed. She is our 3rd J Boat and we have nothing but praise for these well designed, well built, sea kindly yachts. Whether you are racing around the cans or crossing oceans there is nothing like a J.

Our radio skeds with other yachts doing the same passage from the Galapagos became, "OK, how far have you pulled away from us again today".

With a relatively short preparation for the trip across the Pacific you would expect some hiccups or things that we would change or redesign given more time. I can honestly say that we wouldn't change a thing.

We Caught a Fish!

We made bread this afternoon! The boys were in the galley looking through the viewing window of the bread maker with their tongues hanging out.

Ross caught a big 1.35m Wahoo this morning so we thought that we should have “loaves and fishes” for dinner after having a sample of the delicious treat of fresh fish for brunch.

Photo 1: We have a fish!

Photo 2: First close look at our catch. It is definitely well hooked.

Photo 3: It's a great catch

Photo 4: Ross and his Wahoo

Photo 5: Beautifully filleted

The fish was delicious cooked Meuniere with real fries and the fresh bread. We are out of salad vegetables so the stop at the growers markets will be very welcome. Never the less, the meal was very well received.

Stephen and Ross have been having a competition about whether the long line or the short line would catch the next fish. The long line definitely won. From the photo’s you will see that it definitely was a sparkly day.

There is not much wind and it was tempting to motor but we don’t want to get into port in the middle of the night so we are sailing along at 5 - 6 knots with a poled out jib, gybing the angles. We still have a knot of current with us which makes our speed over the ground (SOG) reasonable. Only 250 nm to Atuona on Hiva Oa (Marquesas Islands).

I wonder how “rocky” we will be when we step onto land after 15 days at sea ...

All well in Paradise!

Another day of champagne sailing

Another day of champagne sailing!

We can’t believe our luck !!! 2600 n miles of the most perfect passage making weather.

Photo 1: Breaking Dawn

The temperatures are pleasant during the day and at night it is pure luxury to be on watch (on deck) in light weight shorts and t-shirts in gorgeous soft balmy temperatures.

Photo 2: Cyndy on the Helm

We only had 100 nautical miles of motoring when we left the Galapagos to get into the trade winds and the Equatorial current which are remarkably constant in direction.

We couldn’t have wished for better sailing conditions with wind conditions aft of the beam so that we are sailing with a spinnaker, on a broad reach or with poled out jib.

Tuesday, 18 May

2000 nm from Galapagos Islands, only 1000 nm to Marquesas. We feel that we are on the downhill run.

We have certainly entered into a daily routine with our two hours on four hours off schedule. Plenty of time for enjoying the sail, resting and meals etc.

Photo 1: Ross having a sleep and recovering from dawn watch

Photo 2: Ross studying

Photo 3: Hiding from a rain shower

Another beautiful night on deck last night with the thin crescent of the new moon and brilliant starlight. We are rolling along downwind in about 20 knots of Easterly, on course, and making better than 8 knots over the ground, so our 200 nautical mile days are continuing with our present
conditions.

With the wind more in the east, we are now sailing with a poled out Genoa.

Photo 4: Sailing with the poled out Genoa

The clouds and very occasional light rain come and go here in the Tropics, sometimes building up at dusk and sometimes at dawn, but usually short lived, then back to sunshine and a beautiful deep blue ocean, or starlight and a bio-luminescent display around the hull.

Fishing has been a bit lean after the Mackerel, with only two more fish hooked but lost. One was a very pretty Mahi Mahi ( Dolphin Fish) which was landed on the swim platform but flicked off before being secured, and the other was far too big for us because it bit clean through the stranded steel trace and disappeared with our lure.

Cyndy's evening meals remain the highlight of the day, closely followed by Stephen's brunches, then our quiet little drink session at 1700 Salacia time.

The group of boats in front of us are arriving or nearing anchorages in the Marquesas in light ENE winds, and the group behind are making good time in steady SE winds. We will have 1000 nautical miles remaining by this evening and we are wishing and hoping for our current conditions to remain.

With the sunrises occurring about 13 minutes later each day and the sunsets correspondingly later in the evening as we cruise steadily west, we will soon have to adjust our Salacia time to local time in the Marquesas which is three and a half hours behind the Galapagos (Salacia time).

All on board are well.

Saturday, 15th May

Today is a quiet day. We are mooching along at 9 knots .

Ross caught a fish this morning but it got away. We think it was a dolphin fish which is also called Mahi Mahi or Dorado depending on what part of the world you are in.

We have the ipod cruising and it really is one of those lazy hazy days.

Distance to Marquises is 1633 nms. It should be a cinch to roll that 133 nm through to the half way mark of the passage tomorrow.

Still on a sked with other boats. We finally heard from Ghost after 3 days via email and they are OK and still running with 3 reefs. I think that they finally realised how worried everyone was when they were not calling into the skeds.

Friday, 14th May

At 8 o’clock this morning we had 1885 nautical miles left to go to the Marquises. We are happy to have covered so many miles in 5 days and are hoping that the wind god loves us for the rest of the passage. Our fastest 24 hours was 239 n miles. We have sailed with a #2 jib and full main or an A2 spinnaker with full main in wind conditions of 2 knots to 30 knots and a comfortable sea.

Ross caught a wonderful Narrow Barred Mackerel (or Blue Mackerel) this morning and we had it for brunch cooked Meuniere style with chips by Stephen. Delicious! With Ross’s expert filleting there was not a bone in sight and not even a scale or a drop of blood in the cockpit.

We had a long line fishing mother ship on the horizon for much of the night. It came within 2 nm’s of us this morning just before we came across a long line buoy within a boat length of Salacia.

It is amazing and very amusing how the watches have worked out. It blows like the clappers on Cyndy’s shift, the wind drops out on Stephen’s shift and it rains on Ross’s shift.

All jokes aside, we are a very happy boat with lots of laughs and a natural division of tasks and routine. We make it a priority to do any jobs that crop up each day and that adds to the satisfaction of a day’s work well done.

What do we eat?

It is another beautiful day. We are sailing along on a beam reach at 11 knots in 14 knots of breeze. Distance covered in the last 24 hours was 224 nautical miles.

Ross and Stephen fixed a poor connection on the main halyard electric winch.

We are often asked what we eat on the boat. My usual answer is what we eat at home.

We have just had a vegetable risotto with sauteed chicken for the boys. They are so appreciative that it is rewarding to cook. Last night we had Rack of Lamb with all of the trimmings. Other evening meals in the last week have included Thai Green Curry, Teriyaki Chicken, Beef Bourguignon, Lobster, Chicken casserole with white wine sauce, and Thai Red Curry.

Our lunches include salad, BLT’s, toasted sandwiches and chicken pot pies. Breakfasts are the standard fare of cereal and/or cooked breakfast.

We also eat lots of fresh fruit. The snack drawer and the cookie jar are very popular!

Progress Despite Light Winds

We had a very peaceful night with a little rain and varying wind conditions, sometimes slow but mostly rolling along with a brilliant star display when the sky was clear. We did 190 nmiles in the last 24 hours which is pleasing given the very light wind conditions (6 – 14 knots).

The sea here is teeming with life in the South Equatorial Current and daylight brought the usual deck cargo of squid and flying fish that have jumped aboard during the night. This morning we collected 9 small flying fish and 12 small squid, 2 of which had jumped through open hatches and into the main cabin.

We witnessed our first big pod of Pilot Whales this morning, crossing our transom from north to south, with their characteristic head out breathing technique and long rounded back curving dorsal fins.

The big surprise this morning was a flyover by a small two seater helicopter with sea floats at 0700. The two people aboard circled low and waved happily before disappearing to the south. We suspect they are fish spotters because we later saw a fishing boat with a crow’s nest atop the main mast and dories and nets visible astern. There must be a mother ship as well because we are beyond small helicopter range from the Galapagos.

We have also had a fishing boat off our port beam which we assume is part of the fishing fleet with the mother ship because it is not big enough for a helicopter.

This morning’s HF net included 7 yachts, 6 of which are at sea, with another leaving San Cristobal on Saturday. Ghost is sailing with 3 reefs in her main sail to nurse the unravelling shroud.

It is also washing day on Salacia. We have a “Splendide Combinatic” combination washer dryer which is certainly a luxury and it does a great job. We hang the washing out rather than run the drying cycle so we look like a chinese laundry. Cyndy originally joked that we would leave it on the dock in San Diego but it is worth its weight in gold on the long passages.

3000 Nautical Miles to the Marquesas Islands

Last night at 7pm we passed another boat. We think it was either fellow cruisers Heather and Anton in a Roberts 45, “Shayele” or Brisbanites Ray, Simon and Irish in a 40 ft catamaran “Meander”. These boats were both scheduled to leave Wreck Bay on San Cristobel on Saturday afternoon.

It was an uneventful night with the wind clocking so we had to bring down the spinnaker at 8.30pm (2030 hours). Then it was a two sail reach with wind varying from 6 knots to 18 knots and we are still sailing in the same conditions in a comfortable sea.

We have joined a radio sked with yachts “Ghost”, “Attitude” and “Meander”, the latter two from Brisbane. We last spoke to them on the VHF radio at 12 noon and they had noted that we have passed them to the north (other than Ghost). They are sailing in the same wind and sea conditions that we are. Ghost has 6 strands of wire on one of their shrouds unravelling and they have jury rigged it with rope. Ghost left Puerto Ayora a day before we did but they didn’t spend any time in Villamil so they are in front of us.

The 3000 nautical miles to the Marquesas Islands is alive with other cruising yachts, all heading downwind in the south east trade winds, strung out like pearls in a necklace. It definitely isn’t a lonely sail with many radio skeds to join and no shortage of boats to talk to.

Sailing in the southern tropics is very pleasant, the water temperature of about 25 degrees influences the air temperature, which is about 29 degrees during the day and a few degrees cooler at night. The winds blow in about the same direction at this time of the year, and vary in strength according to how strong the high pressure zone to the south of us is and how far below the equator we are.

Currently sailing in paradise! All is well.

Departing the Galapagos Islands

When we left Villamil, Isabella Island, Galapagos at 6.30am this morning, the bay was alive with wildlife.

Photo 1: The beautiful anchorage at Villamil, Isabel Island, Galapagos

Photo 2: Cyndy and Ross each reading and discussing their copy of the Galapagos Wildlife book

Penguins were swimming off the bow and ducking and weaving under the hull. There was a large Galapagos turtle 50 metres away and the curious sea lions were out in force. The blue footed boobies and the brown pelicans were fishing and a large manta ray swam long side the yacht in the silver water.

Photo 3: Leaving the anchorage at Villamil

We are all very excited about the 3000 nautical mile sail to the Marqueses. We are expecting fairly light breezes until we reach the trade winds in another 50 miles according to Clearpoint’s weather prediction. We should have the South Equatorial current for most of the trip. It is the left over Humboldt current. We motored for the first four hours and we are now flying the large A2 Spinnaker flying. Life is pretty good!

Photo 4: A2 spinnaker depicting the legend of Salacia

Photo 5: Stephen enjoying the sail with the large A2 spinnaker