Hoba Bay, Panaumala Island

Monday  30th September

Hoba Bay, Panaumala Island. 11 08.97 S, 152 46.962E. Wind 15-20 knots E-SE

We travelled the 2nm from Blue Lagoon  to Hoba bay but didnt catch a fish.

Anchored in 25m of water with strong gusts from the SE with slight showers of rain.

Went ashore in the afternoon. Experienced school children singing and display of local handicrafts and their manufacture. Visited the local elementary school.

Gifts from the dim dim yachties included, school uniforms and teaching aids, clothes and first aid medication donated by Rotary from Mackay. This was in addition to purchasing local carvings and Bagies.

We also participated in a Pem Pewa. This is a give-receive exchange between two lines of different culture. We had 65 dim dims and the corresponding number of locals (mainly ladies) bearing baskets of gifts.

Most telling insight is when the elder of the village stated that the "pacific yachts" do more for their village than the PNG govt. Fresh lobster delivered for dinner around 1700. Thirty kina (A$15)  for four large lobster. Great dinner cooked on the BBQ.

Handicraft Demonstration Hoba Bay

Pem Pewa at Hoba Bay

Ron with his new Bagi

Ross learning to make fire

Blue Lagoon

Sunday, 29th September.

Blue Lagoon 11 08.137S, 152 45.806E. Wind E-SE 15-20 knots

We travelled from Bagaman Island to Blue Lagoon all of 5 nautical miles .

It was a great location for a shore based party that went all afternoon. Rum punch by the 20l.

BBQ, swimming, lagoon cricket, Bocce etc. and of course a tug of war between the multi hulls and the mono hulls. The monos won of course, because multihulls are built for women and children (according to Ron)!

Good time had by all.

BBQ ashore at Blue Lagoon

Sunset at Blue Lagoon

Ashore at Bagaman Island

Saturday 28th September. 

Bagaman Island. Wind ESE 15-20 knots. Slight increase in wind strength today but no issue as we spent most of the day ashore. 

We experienced a warm welcome at the Bagaman Island Elementary School followed by separate dance and singing  performances by the children, men and women. The programme was well organised with an agenda and "Master of Ceremonies" and obviously enjoyed by the locals who were encouraging the performers.

We were then treated to another Mumu (lunch feast) followed by a fine display of wood carvings which were available for purchase or trade. Just about everyone purchased something as the quality was exceptionally good. 

We all arrived at the same time as a flotilla of dinghies. 20 dinghies arriving at once was a good spectacle for the locals. 

This visit was a good reminder of how much the local villages look forward to the visits by cruising  yachts as a source of goods and financial assistance. They have a subsistence lifestyle with very few "material goods". You will note from the  School sign in the photos that they are trying to save their "dying culture". 

The rally boats donated lots of clothes, medical supplies and school aids as well as donating cash to assist with the construction of another school room. 

Staying  at Bagaman Island overnight.

Juniors Perform for DIm Dims at Bagaman

Parade of Lunch at Bagaman

Salacia Team after Welcome at Bagaman

Sign at Bagaman School

Women Dancing at Bagaman

Arrival at Bagaman Island

Friday 27th. Wind E-SE 12-15knts. Bagaman Island 11 07.75S, 152 41.99E

It was Ross Jones' Birthday!

We left Punawan Island 0600 to sail to Bagaman Island, 42nm to the east.

We crossed Jomard Strait for the second, time seeing numerous large ships.f It was a very pleasant trip arriving at Bagaman Island at 1230. We were then joined by the other rally yachts during the afternoon.

Spent a quiet afternoon making water and baking bread. 

We celebrated Ross's birthday with Roast Lamb and red wine for dinner. Before hand we visited Avante to celebrate with a glass of champagne. The fleet sang "Happy birthday"  over the VHF to Ross and Catherine (also birthday) off Southern Belle.

Local welcome celebrations ashore tomorrow!

Anchorage at Bagaman Island

Exploring Punawan Island

Thursday 26th September.

Our first full day at Punawan Island.. Blue skies wind E-SE 10-12 knots.

We went ashore this morning to be warmly welcomed and given a guided tour of the island.

Walked to the eastern shore via a water well in the middle of the Island. The water is brackish and only used for washing and cooking. The locals rely on coconut water for sustenance. We also watched the locals preparing the Copra for transport to Alotau. They are all from Brooker Island (35 nm East) and will be returning there over the next weeks.

This afternoon about 13  Sailaus arrived enroute from Legend island (to the west) on the way to Brooker Island. They will overnight here at Punawan. 

The Louisiades is one of the few places in the world where the outboard motor and long boat have not yet taken over. Nearly all trade and transport is via the Sailaus.

Also this afternoon, we traded for some crayfish and coral trout. As an example, for two crayfish we traded, one tee shirt, 2 fishing reels with line and hooks, four AA batteries and a plastic bottle (for bailing out the Sailau).

Life is still tough in Paradise.

Chopping up Copra for Market

Climbing to collecting PNG PK!(chewing gum)

Salacia off the beach at Punawan

Punawan Island

Thursday 25th September 

Punawan Island, Bramble Haven  11 11.43S, 152 01.58E.

We left Nivani Island 0800 this morning and had a delightful sail to Punawan Island approximately 32nm to the SW. Wind 12-15 knots ESE, two sail reaching at 8-8.5 knots. 

We crossed the main shipping channel again (Jomard Channel) and sighted 5 large cargo vessels on the way across. This channel is very busy as it is the main one for shipping between Asia and Australia.

We are the only boat at this anchorage which is fantastic. All the rally boats have gone  in different directions for a few days and will reconvene at Bagaman Island on Friday/Saturday.

As soon as we entered the anchorage we were guided by a local on the beach on where to drop the anchor. He was soon out to meet us in his dugout canoe to meet and greet and take our crayfish order. We are hoping he delivers in time for dinner!

There are three families from Brooker Island living here temporarily to harvest the copra before returning back to Brooker. 

Anchored at Punawan Island

Ron on the spreaders, guiding us into the anchorage

Fun Race in Deboyne Lagoon

Tuesday 24th September.

Still at Nivani Island. Wind 15-20 E-SE.

It has been another busy day with the locals.

In the morning the "dim dims" were taken sailing on the locally built Sailaus. A great experience.

We reciprocated by taking the locals sailing on our boats in the afternoon in a fun race in Deboyne Lagoon. We took 350-400 locals out on the 20 rally yachts and gave them popcorn and cordial etc. Every one had a great time. Salacia took 16 extra "crew" who were really excited when we put up our spinnaker and overtook the fleet.

The day finished with feast/Mumu and prize giving ashore.

Salacia Crew ashore for the feast

Salacia's new crew on the rail

Nivani Island

Monday 23rd September. 

Wind 15-20 SE.  Nivani Island 10 47S, 152 23E 

Nivani was once a coconut plantation but now abandoned. Understood to be freehold and is for sale!!

New breeze in overnight so a lot cooler. Busy day today at Nivani Island.

Started with a welcome ceremony followed by swimming races, canoe races, lunch and a Sailau Fleet race.

Nearly 50-60 locals came over from Panapompom for a fun day with the Dim dim's. Over forty Sailau's came for neighbouring islands for the big race around the lagoon. HEX the largest Sailau at 12m won the "division 1".

All for the amusement of the Dim dims. 

Ron preparing for the canoe race

Sailau race

Welcome Dugon Dance Nivani

Panasia to Panapompom

Sunday, 22 September. 

Winds southerly up to 5 knots and very hot.

Delightful morning start in Panasia where the two J160's posed for photographs with the shear limestone cliffs as background.

Two J160's at Panasia

We left Panasia about 1030 for Panapompom approx. 21nm to the north. Entrance into the new lagoon was narrow but with Ron in the spreaders and good visibility it was an easy passage.

After anchoring off Nivani Island (Next to Panapompom) around 1330 we went snorkelling on a submerged WW2 Zero fighter. It was still in remarkable condition.

Sailau on the beach at Sunset

Still in Paradise

Saturday 21st September. 

Wind 10knt SE.

We embarked on a dinghy trip around to south side of Panasia via coral reef at western end.

We were welcomed by lovely sing sing by young female group at south Panasia. The song had been composed especially for the rally.

After arrival we climbed up to limestone cavern where we all had a swim in cool refreshing water. Then back for traditional Mumu lunch at the village. Mumu is the cooking of food above the ground but under palm leaves covered by hot rocks.

After Mumu returned to main anchorage for quiet afternoon before drinks ashore to watch the sun go down.

Still in paradise!!!!

Limestone Cavern for a swim

Mumu Lunch at South Panasia

Ron charming the local children

Welcome at South Panasia

Another day at Panasia

Friday 20th September. Wind ESE 5-12knts

We spent another day at Panasia.

Activities included a visit to a Skull cave on an adjacent island with a very steep climb, lunch ashore prepared by the local women and a party ashore in the evening.

We are certainly being very well received and entertained. It is real joy to watch the young children play with glee and be so happy.

We are still getting use to the temperature and humidity. We have also ordered some more crayfish for tomorrow.

The water maker has been working a lot to supply extra water for the locals. They rely on rainwater and have had no rain for 4 months.

Appreciation of a new hat

Bill Grun from Avante blowing bubbles

Locals singing their natioanl anthem 

Ross at Skull Cave

Island of Panasia

Yesterday, we departed Duchateau at  1000 hrs for the Island of Panasia only 10nm to the North. On the way, we tried trolling and lost our best lure on 120lb wire trace. Not happy!

We were guided into the anchorage at 1215. Local knowledge was important due to the surrounding reef and isolated "bombies".

Once inside, we anchored and awaited customs and immigration clearance. The officers came in especially by boat to clear the rally yachts. This was the prime reason for Salacia joining the rally. The alternative was to sail to the PNG mainland on the way to the Louisiades and on return for clearance and exit. Apart from not wanting to visit the mainland, the extra distances would be significant.  We will get departure clearance from Misima on 4th October.

Panasia is an idyllic anchorage straight from the "text book". It has heavily vegetated vertical limestones cliffs with a deep blue lagoon protected by reef. It is one of the best anchorages I have ever experienced. Calm water and beautiful with fine white sand beach.

We met the locals briefly tonight on shore and will be having a welcome feast ashore tomorrow, as well as visits to the limestone caves on Panasia and the skull cave on a different island.

Anchorage at Panasia

Dawn at Panasia

Locals at Panasia

Feast on the Beach at Duchateau

Yesterday, the wind was ESE 10-12 knots and we are still at anchor at Duchateau group.

Wednesday was leisurely with our time spent on maintenance and cleaning/washing. This was followed by a lobster feast at sunset on the beach.

The feast was all cooked by the locals from Brooker Island. Over 100 painted crayfish and fish caught during the day and barbecued for 78 yachties. No shortage of seafood here! The food was fantastic and the locals very friendly.

All well on board

Safe arrival at the Louisiades

We arrived safely at the Louisiades this morning. Entered Jomard Passage 0400 Tuesday morning after a moonlit night of great sailing. Took a long time to get through as we hit opposing tides of  up to five knots.

Entered the main Louisiades Lagoon 0500 and motored to our anchorage (just north of Panuluwaluwala  Island). Anchor down 0630. After a small rum to celebrate our arrival we spent most of the day on the usual job list.

We were the first of the rally yachts to arrive. The locals came to check us out but left us alone when they realised that the rally boss was yet to get here.The next yacht arrived 1100 and then a continual arrival all afternoon.

Traded some fresh lobsters this afternoon for tee shirts, fish hooks and cap.Went ashore 1700 to have drinks with the boats that have arrived and also to meet the locals. More yachts to arrive tomorrow.

The clear waters, beautiful white sands and a great sunset made for a magical finish to the  day.

Afterwards had a delightful crayfish dinner on board Salacia .

Early night to catch up on some sleep

Our warm welcome to Duchateau

80 nautical miles to the Duchateau Islands

It has been an uneventful day today.
We have had ESE winds at 10-15 knots and calm seas. It is very pleasant sailing.
We have been trying to slow down but in typical Salacia style she does not like to go slow.

As a result we are heading for Jomard passage which is at the eastern end of the main Louisiades lagoon.  We will then motor to our first anchorage at the Duchateau Islands. This is to avoid waiting for daylight to enter the lagoon next to the Duchateau Islands.
We have currently 80nm to go. Our ETA is 0500 tomorrow morning.
Our position is 12 20S, 151 30 E.
All well on board.

Dian enjoying today's sail

Enroute to Duchateau

It has been another great day at sea. East-southeast winds at 10-15 knots with calm seas.

We are now half way, with 250nm to go. Our current position is 14 25 S, 149 36E and we need to slow down for a daylight entry at Duchateau on Tuesday morning.

We have one reef in the mainsail and just the staysail on but we are still doing 7.5knts.

Salacia just loves to sail!

All is well on board.

A beautiful sunrise at sea this morning with nothing to see on the deep blue sea all the way to the horizon for 360 degrees. 

Ross chose to do some maintenace on the bow as an exercise to have salt water shower  on a hot day. Ross is wearing the usual personal gear that we each need for on deck work.

Departed Yorkeys Knob

Our first day at sea has been very pleasant. We departed Yorkeys Knob at 0600 this morning. We started with a lovely 10-12 knot southerly which went around to the south east during the afternoon.

As of 1830 tonight we are sailing 40 apparent, on course and averaging 7.5 knots. The sea conditions are good and many birds are following.

Salacia's current position is 16 07S, 147 08E. We 425 nautical miles from Duchateau, our first destination.

We have had some problems with our HF radio which is very disappointing as we have always had 100% performance in the past. Sat phone is our substitution for staying in contact with the fleet.

Stephen and Ross discussing navigation to leave Yorkeys Knob at dawn yesterday. As the channel is very shallow so we needed to leave just after high tide with 5 other yachts. The rest left mid morning.

After a long hiatus… off to PNG!

After a long hiatus from blogging about our adventures on Salacia, we are on the move again. Salacia is headed to Cairns to join the Louisiades Yacht Rally.

It was a dream of Cyndy's to join the Rally this year and after much deliberation, I decided to head north with Ross, Dian and Ron. We will be joining our friends Bill and Sue from the yacht "Avante"  (another J160) on the Rally.

The Rally leaves from Cairns on Saturday, September 14 (weather dependant) and heads towards the Louisiades Archipelago which is located 120 nautical miles east of Alotau (mainland Papua New Guinea).

For those of you that want some more information about the Rally and the Louisiades, check out the Rally website: http://www.louisiades.com

Stephen