Back in Australia!

Monday 21st Mackay Marina. 

Back in Australia! 1500nm and five weeks since we left Yorkeys Knob on 14th September.

We left Dumaga Bay on Tuesday 15th and exited the outer reef via Johnsons pass. The wind was kind to us with 10-15 knots from the East. Second day the wind increased to 20knots but stayed ESE so we had a great sail. We arrived at East Diamond Islet on the morning of the 3rd day (360nm from Dumaga bay).

This was such an unexpected delight and so we stayed over night. We went ashore and wandered through all of the bird life (Frigates, Cormorants, Gannets and Boobies) and countered hundreds of green turtles in the water next to the beach, waiting for darkness to come up the beach to lay their eggs. The beach was beautiful with no previous footprints.

The islet (17 26S, 151 04E) is on the western side of Diamond Passage (Lihou reef on the eastern side)  which is a main thoroughfare for bulk cargo ships. We hadn't heard of the Islet until mentioned casually by one of the other rally yachts. Certainly a very special place.

Bird life at East Diamond Islet

Boobie at East Diamond Islet

East Diamond Islet

Green Turtle East Diamond Islet

We then left East Diamond Islet and continued on to Mackay via Hydrographers passage through the barrier reef. We did not want to arrive over the weekend and pay overtime charges for Quarantine, so stayed a night at Scawfell Island on Saturday night. Came into Mackay Marina sunday night and cleared customs and quarantine formalities on Monday morning. No problems, all went smoothly. Both Customs and Quarantine officers were very good.

Sunset at Scawful Island

During our return voyage we had time to reflect on our visit to the Louisiades as it was certainly a very special area.

Our reflections include:

• Happy, polite, generous and caring people with a strong commitment to family and community.
• The majority of the people are industrious workers; fishing, farming, building and cleaning to ensure survival with few material possessions.
•  Memories of being woken by the laughter of children playing on the beach at dawn. 
• Seeing the children of all ages caring for each other and playing together often while singing………the gifts of balls from the dim dims were greatly appreciated.
• Hearing groups of children singing melodiously as they completed their walk home from school……….often a long way to another village. 
•  A great diversity of smiles from beautiful white teeth to red stained mouths, teeth and gums from chewing betel nut. 
• There is a high level of motor skill development in all the children from a very young age.
• We were often visited by young children paddling narrow canoes out to the yachts to trade precious items such as a fresh egg for a book or a shirt; always resulting in big smiles and thank you.
• English is now taught in schools with a high ratio of children to teachers. 
•  Schools have high expectations for learning and behaviour; “intelligent people want to learn, but stupid people are full of ignorance”. 
• No overweight adults or children were sighted.
• A strong emphasis to maintain “culture”. 
• Sailing the traditional “Sailau’s” is the main means of transport even over long distances taking more than a day with no navigational instruments.
• Questioning if “our” efforts to help are in the right direction……….conflict with maintaining culture.
• Contrast between villages that are visited by the rally yachts and other boats on a regular basis and the villages that are rarely visited by outsiders. The most obvious contrast is the marked difference in lighting of the villages at night as those not visited are dark without solar lights however these villagers will be out before dawn to fish in their canoes and sailaus.
• Mothers appear to be very young and have a number of young children early………families appear to be well nourished.
• Sailaus and dugout canoes are still made in the traditional way with lashed outriggers attached……….Paneati Island is the major supplier of the timber and building.
• Traditional dress (grass skirts) is maintained for dancing and ceremonies…………the dancing style is common throughout the islands and learnt at a very young age.

 In the words of Ron:

Beautiful places with smiling young faces living from the land and the sea

Traditional villages scattered on beaches ……… few old faces we see

Coconuts and crayfish, bananas and reef fish, an idyllic life it seems

With sailing the main form of transport up here I think they are living a dream

Thats it for this voyage!!!!

Last Day of the Rally at Wanim Island

Monday 14th October.

Dumaga Bay, 11 37.923S, 153 32.05E.

Yesterday was the last day of the rally and was celebrated with a "pirate party" on the beach at Wanim Island.

We sailed around from Nimoa in the morning and started "partying" around 1500 with 40 litres of rum punch, with a BBQ following. It was a rather late night with some sore heads following. Great time had by all.

Most of the yachts departed in different directions this morning with Salacia being the only vessel to head East. We motor sailed the 35nm East to Dumaga Bay on the south Coast of Sudest (Tagula) island.

Dumaga Bay is directly opposite Johnson Passage which is one of the few passage through the outer barrier reef on the south side. We plan to exit this passage in the next couple of days and head for Mackay (650nm).

If the wind is not favourable we will arrive at Townsville. ETA Australia is Monday morning.

We plan to leave Salacia in a marina and return end of November to bring her the rest of the way home.

We have a had great month but looking forward to getting back.

Dian and Ron

Pirate Party

Ross (on left) dressed as Neptune

Sunset from Wanim Island

Nimowa Island Primary School & Clinic

Saturday 12th October. Nimowa Island.

Very special day today. We visited the Nimoa Primary school followed by a visit to Nimoa Clinic.

This was followed by a magnificent Mumu (best yet) live music, soccer and netball games between the Dim Dims and the locals.

The Nimoa Clinic was very special as it  has had a significant affect on reducing the death rate  related to childbirth in the surrounding islands. The Yacht rally has been supporting the clinic since 2008 and makes a significant contribution to the operating costs. This year the rally raised over 20,000 kina (A$10,000) for the clinic. This is in addition to all of the donations of medical supplies etc.

The clinic owns a water ambulance (see pic) for transportation of patients the the closest hospital and doctor in Alotau when necessary. The boat is an old starting boat from RPAYC in Pittwater. The clinic is run by Sister Sarah  who is just amazing. 

Very special Island and brings to clarity one of the main purposes of the rally. It feels good to make a difference.

Dim Dims taking a turn with the music. 

Nimoa Primary School

Soccer game againts the local children

Water Ambulance for Nimoa Clinic

Panga ride at to Sudest Island

Friday 11th October. Nimoa Island

Today we went on a long Panga ( long boat with 40hp outboard) ride to a waterfall up the Fieori river on the north coast of Sudest Island. One hour on open water and 15 mins in the river. It was a very tough ride bouncing over waves whilst sitting on the floor and hanging on for dear life.

On our return, we visited a first aid clinic and school at Griffin Point . We donated medical supplies and books which were greatly appreciated.

The school was built up on top of the ridge and was one of the best we had seen. Well built and maintained with great views and cool breezes. Grades 3 through 8 are taught here (172 students) with normally 6 teachers although they were down to 4 at the moment. Shortage of teachers is apparently a big problem. Most recent class rooms had been provided by the Catholic Church.

Just before we arrived back at Nimoa three of the Pangas ran out of fuel. After frantic efforts to find more fuel we all delivered safely back to our yachts. It was a bit concerning for a little while.

Hot showers were a high priority on return.

Classroom sign at Griffin Point School

Pangas going up the Fieori River

View from Griffin Point School

Nimoa Island

Thursday 10th October. Nimoa Island 11 18S, 153 15E

Wind 20knts Easterly. Left Hessessai Bay 0930 this morning.

Motored to Nimoa Island via Hati Lawi Harbour where we stopped for morning tea.

At Hati Lawi, Ross gave a couple of the locals a fishing rod each complete with personal instructions on use. They were wrapt.

Passed lots of villages along the coast and Sailaus enjoying the breeze.

We went ashore at Nimoa 1700 for a traditional welcome by the elementary school students. Sing Sing and traditional dancing by the young children. Wonderful as usual.

Fishing Rod Instructions

One Rod each

Welcome Dance at Nimoa

Hessessai Bay, Panatinane Island

Wednesday 9th October. 

Hessessai Bay, Panatinane Island. 11 12.3S, 153 05.5E

Wind SE 15-20knts.

Left Robinsons  0930 this morning and explored several anchorages on the way to Hessessai Bay. Arrived here 1330 for a late lunch. Our best sunset yet, tonight.

All tired today after a late night on Quintessa (14m Motor Cat) with several other Rally yachts.

Sixteen of us participated in a fancy dress and murder mystery party. Lot of fun and we enjoyed more fresh fish cooked on the BBQ for dinner.

Avante under the Rainbow

Fancy Dress on Quintessa

Sunset at Hessessai Bay

Robinsons Anchorage, Kuwanak Island

Tuesday 8th October.

Robinsons Anchorage, Kuwanak Island, 11 09.672S, 152 54.715

Left Brooker Island 0930 this morning headed for Robinson's Anchorage 30nm to the east. Pleasant sail until heavy rain-squalls came in from the North East. Very little visibility for a couple of hours.

It cleared for us to anchor at Robinson's. Great contrast between Brooker  (very dry) and Robinson's (green and lush) in terms of vegetation.

We caught another Tuna on route, so fresh fish for dinner again. Did I mention that we had fresh cray last night!

The next rally rendezvous is at Nimoa Island, so we are working our way East to be there by Thursday afternoon.

Community Outhouse at Brooker Island

Entering Robinsons Anchorage

Robinsons Anchorage

Brooker Island

Monday 7th October.  

Brooker Island 11 02.9S, 152 26.4 E

Left Bagaman Island 0930 this morning after completing negotiations for our pre-ordered wood carvings.

Avante left shortly after us and we headed for Brooker Island 28nm to the west.

Arrived at the reef entrance to Brooker Island 1230 but low visibility and strong tide (+ 3knots)  caused us to  abort. We went past the entrance turned around to return uptide with Ronny in the spreaders. We were still reluctant to make the entrance until two Sailau's came out guided us through. We proceeded with great trepidation (heart in the mouth) but were successful with a minimum depth of 3.9m over hard coral.

Once in the anchorage it was all worth while, including the screams of delight from the numerous young children on the shore shouting "yachts, yachts". We were then inundated with young children in their dugouts coming out to greet us.

We went ashore after lunch and were made very welcome. We visited the school and library, met one of the teachers and some of the locals. Population of the Island 6-700 people.

Very neat village but everything very dry as no water for 5 months until the last couple of days.

We ordered crayfish shortly after arrival and 4 lobsters arrived around 1600 in exchange for sikaflex to repair Sailau's leaks.

Delicious on the BBQ for dinner. Also traded for limes, eggs and coconuts. Very protected anchorage, we will sleep well tonight.

Another school with logo "Sailing to success"

Beach at Brooker Island

Welcome at Brooker Island

Local children welcoming us to Brooker Island

Bagaman Island

Sunday, 6 October. Bagaman Island.

Returned here to pick up some wood carvings we ordered when we were here previously.

Left Bwagaoia 0930 this morning in company with Avante. First task was to break out of the rafted up group with Yantara and get her onto her own anchor. Her spare parts will not arrive until Monday.

We were glad to leave "dodge" and not be rafted up to other vessels.

Continuous rain squalls today. Not pleasant weather. Destination tomorrow will depend upon weather.

All well on board.

Special Cake for the Dim Dims on Saturday Night

Tuna caught on our way to Bagaman

Crazy times in Bwagaoia Harbour

Saturday 5th October.  Bwagaoia Harbour. Exciting times.

After a pleasant night with dinner ashore at the Guest House and listening to Ken Gourlay give a talk on his circumnavigation, this morning was full of excitement.

Around 0700 Ron watched the townspeople running away from  the market area, We ended up watching an armed hold up of one of the market stores and the taking of hostages. Around 4-5 "villains" armed with shotguns and rifles fired shots and kidnapped the store owner, his wife and children.

They left by long boat and motored past the rally boats on their way out of Bwagaoia Harbour. We were keeping our heads down as they went past. With relief we realised that they had no interest in the rally yachts. The hostages were recovered later in the day, but not the "villains". Needless to say we were all thinking that we need to get out of "dodge".

As things settled down, the planned welcome of the rally yachts by the locals went ahead.

At midday we were met by dancers whom we followed up the street to the Guest House. This was followed further performances and the judging of  the "Misima Girl". Over thirty entrants.

 

We then participated in an auction to raise funds for the health clinic at Nimoa Island and then a lovely early dinner at the guest house. Also cleared customs so we are now okay to leave at our leisure. Back on our yachts before dark.

On Friday night, Ken Gourlay gave a talk on his single handed and unassisted  circumnavigation of the globe. Ken is on the rally yacht Allusive from Tasmania. By co-incidence I went to school with the owner/skipper in Launceston in the mid 60's. Small world.

Ken circumnavigated in 2006-7 and was the oldest Australian and first Tasmanian to do so. Great story. Also raised a lot of money for charity.

On our way to dinner we passed close to a 3m crocodile. Fun place.

Plan to head out Sunday.

Crocodile on the way to dinner

Miss Misima Girl entrant

More welcome performances.

Rewards of Pem Pewa ceremony

Welcome dancing at Bwagaoia

Bwagaoia Harbour, Misima Island

Friday 4th October. Bwagaoia Harbour, Misima Island.

Remaining rally yachts arrived this morning.

Easy Day in Bwagaoia with more shopping and refuelling.

Also sighted a crocodile in the anchorage which put everyone on alert.

Heavy rain showers in the late afternoon.

Bwagaioa Markets

Refueling at the Bwagaioa Jetty

Yachts rafted up to Salacia in Bwagaoia

Bwagaoia Harbour, Misima Island

Wednesday 3rd October.  

Bwagaoia Harbour, Misima Island  10 41.28S, 152 50.77E

Left Ebora this morning and sailed to Bwagaoia Harbour which is at the other end of Misima Island. Passed numerous Sailau's and fishing canoes adjacent to the steep cliffs in very deep water. This port is the main (only!) town on Misima. It has several stores, a bakery and bank.

We have come here to clear customs and purchase fuel which has been ordered from Australia. When the Misima Mine was operating this place was booming. Since the mine closure in 2008 (I think!) it is struggling as a commercial centre. 

It is a small harbour so for all of the rally boats to be accommodated, we need to raft up, 4 boats at a time. We also cannot anchor in the flight path for the airstrip which is adjacent.

Just before arriving at Bwagaoia we met with Yantara (rally yacht) who had lost their engine. We took her alongside so that she could anchor with us.

We were hoping to replenish our wine and beer supply but very disappointed. No white wine and the red is very ordinary. Beer looks okay (South Pacific Export Lager). Received a gold medal in 2008!!!!!!!!

We are here for three days until customs and fuel procedures are completed.

Departing Ebora

Schoolchild at Ebora showing us his handwriting

Ebora at Misima Island

Wednesday 2nd October. Kamatal and Ebora 10 37.68S, 152 32.44E

We went ashore this morning and visited the Kamatal Yacht Club.

Jimmy the patron, feeds his extended family of 17 people by entertaining visiting yachts.

We were invited to stay for dinner this evening but we wanted to push on to Ebora.

We left Kamatal around 0900 and had a great 2 sail reach in 15-20knt SE'ly to Ebora, 20 nm away. Fishing attempted but failed again.

Ebora is 0.5 nm SE of the Western end of Misima Island. Misima with peaks 1000m was invisible due to cloud and haze until we were only couple of miles way.

It is a gorgeous little bay with steep heavily forested hills protected from the SE'lys. There is only room for a max three (poss 4) boats. What a contrast of anchorages compared to Kamatal.

We anchored in 25m and then took a stern line ashore and tied it to a Occury nut tree.

We were certainly the highlight for the village of over 500 people. Lots of children and women. The men were away planting the vegetables.

They only get a few yachts every year.

We visited the school (149 students and two teachers!!!) and donated writing materials. 

Lessons given to different grades in 1.5 hr sessions. Boys on the beach this afternoon had been to school this morning

A very special and unspoilt place.

Boys on the beach at Ebora carrying water

Dian on the beach at Ebora

Inside Kamatal Yacht Club

School at Ebora

Tying stern line to tree at Ebora

Kamatal Island.

Kamatal Island. 10 56.85S, 152 42.35E

Sailed from Hoba bay to Kamatal this morning in company with Avante. Overcast with squalls to 20 knots. We arrived 30 mins before 30 knot squalls with rain.

This is a very different anchorage again as it is very flat lying. They haven't had rain during 2013 so we were good luck omen to the residents.

Jimmy from Kamatal Yacht club  came on board to accept some fishing gear as a gift and to ask us to sign his visitors book. He and and his family are the only residents on the island. Invited us ashore for a BBQ tomorrow but we are planning to head for Ebora Anchorage on Misima Island. Visitors book shows all of the yachts that had visited since 2008. Quite something.

Lazy afternoon due to consistent rain squalls. All well on board.

Kamatal Anchorage

Hoba Bay, Panaumala Island

Monday  30th September

Hoba Bay, Panaumala Island. 11 08.97 S, 152 46.962E. Wind 15-20 knots E-SE

We travelled the 2nm from Blue Lagoon  to Hoba bay but didnt catch a fish.

Anchored in 25m of water with strong gusts from the SE with slight showers of rain.

Went ashore in the afternoon. Experienced school children singing and display of local handicrafts and their manufacture. Visited the local elementary school.

Gifts from the dim dim yachties included, school uniforms and teaching aids, clothes and first aid medication donated by Rotary from Mackay. This was in addition to purchasing local carvings and Bagies.

We also participated in a Pem Pewa. This is a give-receive exchange between two lines of different culture. We had 65 dim dims and the corresponding number of locals (mainly ladies) bearing baskets of gifts.

Most telling insight is when the elder of the village stated that the "pacific yachts" do more for their village than the PNG govt. Fresh lobster delivered for dinner around 1700. Thirty kina (A$15)  for four large lobster. Great dinner cooked on the BBQ.

Handicraft Demonstration Hoba Bay

Pem Pewa at Hoba Bay

Ron with his new Bagi

Ross learning to make fire