Stephen's Birthday

Stephen’s birthday was of course a perfect Tuomoto’s day with clear skies and no wind. It was a day of celebration. A batch of muffins complete with birthday candles didn’t even have a chance to cool down. We explored a new anchorage and marvelled at the clarity of the water.

Photo 1: Clarity of the water

When we walked across the atoll it reminded us of a moonscape where vegetation doesn’t have a chance to grow between storms. There is flotsam and jettsom scattered and we even found a long-liner’s buoy.

Photo 2: Stephen and Ross exploring the moonscape

This boobie, resplendent with a blue beak and feet boobie. It is a type of boobie that we haven’t seen before and it was certainly more interested in us than it’s lunch.

Photo 3: Boobie

Photo 4: Sunset

"Salacia Island" and Departing for Fakarava

It is certainly paradise here as you can see from the picture of Salacia anchored off the village.

We have moved to another anchorage which is even better. We now have our own island ... We circumnavigated “Salacia Island” on foot and there were lots of coconut crabs and also any hermit crabs. The island is a coral atoll and on the seaward side you can see the storm damage with many very large pieces of coral washed up. On the lagoon side the beach is much smaller pieces of coral and casuarinas and other salt tolerant plants and trees have made their home. The lagoon is teeming with marine life. Lots of schools of fish of all sizes swimming past the yacht and a good collection of sting rays.

Photo 1: Stephen examining some flotsam on "Salacia Island"

Photo 2: Salacia in the lagoon of "Salacia Island"

Photo 3: Sunset at "Salacia Island"

Photo 4: Hermit Crab

This morning we rose at 5.30 am to leave Kauehi atoll. It was before slack water because we wanted to arrive at Favarava as close to slack water as possible and a strong flow of water was running out through the entrance. We were doing an exciting 14 knots over the ground through the pass. As Ross said "We were spat out"!

Cyndy made some delicious bread on route to Fakarava and had it warm with salad for lunch. The bread just gets better and better. Favorites are Rye and Caraway and Crusty White. We also made water, did the laundry and had showers. The water maker makes 200 litres of water per hour so there is never a shortage and we don't have to ration it.

Fakarava is the second largest Tuamotu atoll and it is 32 mile long by 15 mile wide rectangular shape lying roughly NW-SE. The pretty (and pristine) village of Rotoava in the WNW corner of the atoll. There is a cement block at the village that we used for our dinghy landing.

Photo 5: This ray was at the dinghy dock under our zodiac

There are 3 very small grocery stores, a post office, a dive store, several pensions and an airport with weekly flights to Papeete.

Photo 6: Beautiful church at Rotoava, Fakarava

We are anchored off the village in crystal clear water in company with a number of other yachts. We entered the lagoon after slack water and we were doing 10.2 knots over the ground because of the amount of water entering the lagoon.

Photo 7: Anchorage off the Village

Tuamotu Archipelago

We arrived at Kauehi in the Tuamotu Archipelago this morning after a very quiet 3 day passage (mainly under motor) from the Marquises.

Photo 1: Approaching the Tuamotu's at day break

Photo 2: Sunrise over the Tuamotu's

Photo 3: The sailing definitley hasn't been arduous

Photo 4: Sunset

Photo 5: Another Sunset

The Tuamotu’s are a group of 78 islands, all but 2 being coral atolls. In contrast to the lush vegetation and towering mountains of the Marquises, the atolls have very little greenery except for the palm trees and short grass and they are “low-lying”. Together with the Marquises and Society Islands they form French Polynesia and are administrated from Tahiti.

Kauehi is a green low atoll and it is well wooded except on the SW side. The entry is a well marked, deep and clear channel on the SW side and we passed through it at slack water to avoid the strong tidal flows. Navigation across the lagoon to our anchorage off the village of Tearavero on the NE side was simple and free of coral heads.

Photo 6: Salacia off the village

Photo 7: The village church is picturesque and shows the community pride

Photo 8: This gentleman called Eduardo asked us to take his picture and print it out

for him

We are the only yacht in the atoll and it is absolutely gorgeous here. Definitely picture perfect and all that is missing is Beau Derek !!!

Photo 9: Salacia in Paradise

Vaipo Waterfall

We were up early this morning to do a hike through the coconut palms and up the slope the leads through the valley to Vaipo waterfall . We landed the dinghy near the river at the eastern head of L’Anse Hakaui. It was quite shallow and the surf was breaking across the river mouth so we had to row to a suitable dinghy landing.

Photo 1: Negotiating the river to the dinghy landing after crossing the bar

Photo 2: Inspiring Vista

Close behind the beach are the ruins of the old village and a church with some very old statues. We passed many ruined paepae (foundations of ancient houses) and some tikis in the valley.

Photo 3: Ancient Tiki

It is amazing that more than 20,000 people lived in this valley before the white men arrived. Our diseases wiped the population out and now 15 people live in this beautiful valley. There was an extensive aqua duct and preserved bone holes. The bone hole is where the inhabitants threw the bones of what they ate so that they could get any that they needed in the future for carving etc. The bone hole was also where they put prisoners or as a punishment hole like solitary confinement.

Photo 4: Bone Hole and Ruined Paepae

The high and narrow waterfall was cascading from the 610m (2000 ft) plateau to the valley floor below. There was little water running but it was well worth the effort to experience the awesome majestic vista which makes it the third highest waterfall in the world. The hike took us 1 hour 50 minutes each way and we were pleased with the time because most people we have spoken to took between 2 hours and 2 ½ hours.

Photo 5: Stephen looking for the snacks!

Photo 6: Where's the waterfall

We were the first hikers on the trail (and to the waterfall) this morning and were amazed that every metre on the trail there was a fresh yellow or rust hibiscus flower but we couldn’t find the trees. We decided that we would enjoy the mystery and called it the Yellow Hibiscus Road (instead of the Yellow Brick Road).

Photo 7: Yellow Hibiscus Road

We had to ford the fast running river a number of times and the going was muddy and very rocky. We think that the trail was ancient and the original and were surprised that it didn’t appear more well used considering how many yachts have visited during the “season” which is now coming to an end. The only way to see the waterfall is to anchor and hike along the track that we used. During the wet season it must be absolutely incredible.

Photo 8: The Waterfall will be Spectacular in the Wet Season

Ross enjoyed a swim in the cold water and explored the hidden areas behind the giant boulders. A Swiss couple off “Dilan” arrived while we were enjoying the waterfall and we passed many hikers on our way back. We were certainly happy that we had an early start and were back before the day got too hot.

Photo 9: Ross enjoying a swim

We had lunch and then raised the anchor for our return trip to Baie de Taiohae. Ross lost his hat leaving the anchorage and while Cyndy was going back to retrieve it Joanie off “Pickles” jumped into her dinghy and picked it up returned it to us. We met “Pickles” at Wreck Bay and Villamel in the Galapagos and been amused by their 4 children who do a “circus show” on the halyards every evening. They are being home schooled by Joanie and Guy and the halyard sessions are their treat for the day.

Photo 10: Morning at Baie de Taioa

We are taking a tour of the island tomorrow with an English speaking guide and are really looking forward to learning more about this beautiful place. Rose Corser from the museum has assured us that he is one of the best. We are hoping that he drives a 4 x 4 so that we don’t have to ride on the tray in the back like others we have seen.

Ile Nuku Hiva

On Friday 4th June, we had great sail to Ile Nuku Hiva. A nice beam reach...

Photo 1: Cyndy is enjoying the sail

This is the principle island of the Marquises and precipitously high with Takao the highest point at 1185 metres. Other heights along the northern coast give rise to many beautiful waterfalls. Baie de Taiohae is reputably the safest anchorage in the Marquises. A large white cross of crystalline rocks rises above the cliffs to the east. The bay holds a fascinating place in history for it was here that 23 year old Herman Melville jumped a whaling ship in 1842.

Photo 2: Salacia in Baie de Taiohae, Ile Nuku Hiva

We loaded fuel at the ship dock on the way in to the bay by putting the main anchor out and reversing in and taking a stern line ashore. Much easier than carting it by jerry cans and dinghy.

There are 37 yachts in the bay here. A lot of yachts that we met in Wreck Bay in the Galapagos are here so we have enjoyed catching up with them.

Photo 3: Baie de Taiohae, Ile Nuku Hiva

On Saturday we were up at 4am to go to the fruit and veg markets which run from 4.30am to 7.30am and only on a Saturday. Ursula off “Vagabond” and Don off “Liquid Courage” were the only other yachties crazy enough to be there. The fresh croissants and French pastries made the trip worthwhile. Then we were off to top up on groceries, white wine and beer at 7.30am.

Photo 4: A paddler moments after a giant ray leapt 2 -3 metres out of the water, only inches from his outrigger.

Rose Corser, a long time resident of the bay gave us a warm welcome when we visited her museum of Marquesan artifacts.

We continued our exploration today with a pleasant little sail to Baie Taioa which is well camouflaged. The opening to the bay is difficult to identify from seaward as the entrance points overlap. In the heavy surf today the entrance looked as though it was breaking right across so we consulted the charts and checked our navigation. It is a wonderful sheltered gem of a anchorage and we are looking forward to spending the evening here. It is also known as Daniel and Antoinette’s Bay, after the friendly Marquisan couple who have lived here for over 60 years.

Ua Pou

We had a great 65 nm sail from Baie Hanamenu on Hiva Oa to Ua Pou (pronounced as wapoo).

We left before 6am and motored until the wind came in. After a broad reach the call was for the A2, our largest asymmetric spinnaker. All went well with the hoist using the snuffer but we were 25 degrees above course and the wind freshened to 25 knots so we decided to take it down. That was when we discovered that it was set up on the wrong tack so Ross donned his harness and went out on the bow sprit to remedy the problem. We were all pleased that it was a text book drop and we poled out the jib and had a lovely little sail in the right direction.

Photo 1: Drying the A2 Spinnaker

Our first impression of this diamond shaped island was a spectacular serrated skyline with countless souring mountain spires and towers, the highest being Oave, a volcanic plug reaching 1,200 m (4040 feet).

Photo 2: Approaching Ua Pou

The village of Hakahau is the 3^rd largest settlement in the Marquises and has a population of 1000. We are anchored behind a breakwater/wharf combination which extends from the east side of the bay. After we anchored (with bow and stern anchors again) we explored the town.

Photo 3: The threatening skyline of Ua Pou above the village

It is a neat, tidy and industrious town and from the large number of new 4WD’s, very affluent. The fishing boats are modern and new compared to the pangas (workboats) that we have encountered elsewhere in the Marquises. There is also a lovely school and a college and kids were playing soccer, boules and training for athletics on the ovals until nightfall. There is also a lot of public works adding to the industrious and energetic feel.

Photo 4: Going ashore

Ross and Cyndy were swamped in the dinghy negotiating the surf so it was quick showers and a change of clothes before Katie and Jim from “Tenaya” (a 44 ft Halseberg Rasse) arrived aboard for drinks until late. We had met them a week ago at the anchorage at Atuona where they were having anchor problems. They are from the Californian ski resort Mammoth so we told them to keep an eye open for J160 “Avante” from Telluride because they would have a lot in common.

This morning we went ashore to top up on fresh baguettes and to visit the wonderful Eglisse Saint-Etienne. Local craftsmen have used local stone and wood to construct this spectacular structure. The pulpit is a massive block of tou meticulously carved in the shape of a boats prow on a huge base containing detailed symbolic carvings.

Photo 5: The carved pulpit at the church

The local English teacher recommended “Snack Vahine Hou” a local restaurant where we had a delicious lunch. The boys enjoyed braised baby goat washed down with beer and Cyndy yummy stir fried vegetables.

Tonight we are planning Rack of Lamb with the obligatory bottle of red before we leave at dawn for Ile Nuku Hiva.

Photo 6: We are definitely starting to look like a cruising boat

Photo 7: Sunset at Ua Pou