We left before 6am and motored until the wind came in. After a broad reach the call was for the A2, our largest asymmetric spinnaker. All went well with the hoist using the snuffer but we were 25 degrees above course and the wind freshened to 25 knots so we decided to take it down. That was when we discovered that it was set up on the wrong tack so Ross donned his harness and went out on the bow sprit to remedy the problem. We were all pleased that it was a text book drop and we poled out the jib and had a lovely little sail in the right direction.

Photo 1: Drying the A2 Spinnaker
Our first impression of this diamond shaped island was a spectacular serrated skyline with countless souring mountain spires and towers, the highest being Oave, a volcanic plug reaching 1,200 m (4040 feet).

Photo 2: Approaching Ua Pou
The village of Hakahau is the 3rd largest settlement in the Marquises and has a population of 1000. We are anchored behind a breakwater/wharf combination which extends from the east side of the bay. After we anchored (with bow and stern anchors again) we explored the town.

Photo 3: The threatening skyline of Ua Pou above the village
It is a neat, tidy and industrious town and from the large number of new 4WD’s, very affluent. The fishing boats are modern and new compared to the pangas (workboats) that we have encountered elsewhere in the Marquises. There is also a lovely school and a college and kids were playing soccer, boules and training for athletics on the ovals until nightfall. There is also a lot of public works adding to the industrious and energetic feel.

Photo 4: Going ashore
Ross and Cyndy were swamped in the dinghy negotiating the surf so it was quick showers and a change of clothes before Katie and Jim from “Tenaya” (a 44 ft Halseberg Rasse) arrived aboard for drinks until late. We had met them a week ago at the anchorage at Atuona where they were having anchor problems. They are from the Californian ski resort Mammoth so we told them to keep an eye open for J160 “Avante” from Telluride because they would have a lot in common.
This morning we went ashore to top up on fresh baguettes and to visit the wonderful Eglisse Saint-Etienne. Local craftsmen have used local stone and wood to construct this spectacular structure. The pulpit is a massive block of tou meticulously carved in the shape of a boats prow on a huge base containing detailed symbolic carvings.
Photo 5: The carved pulpit at the church
The local English teacher recommended “Snack Vahine Hou” a local restaurant where we had a delicious lunch. The boys enjoyed braised baby goat washed down with beer and Cyndy yummy stir fried vegetables.
Tonight we are planning Rack of Lamb with the obligatory bottle of red before we leave at dawn for Ile Nuku Hiva.

Photo 6: We are definitely starting to look like a cruising boat

Photo 7: Sunset at Ua Pou


1 comment:
Hi Stephen, Cyndy and Ross,
I can't tell you disappointed I am to have discovered the link to your blog last week. I have been very happy with the decision to sell Celera but your blog is killing me!
Congratulations on taking the time off to do this. It looks to have been a fantastic trip so far. Ross, you couldn't have timed your retirement any better!
We are off to sail the Ionion Coast of Greece at the end of the month (chartering a 42' something....if it was a car it would be a Kia) which should should be a bit of fun.
Thanks again for the blog, it has certainly wet my appetite for that part of the Pacific.
Regards,
Patrick
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