Vaipo Waterfall

We were up early this morning to do a hike through the coconut palms and up the slope the leads through the valley to Vaipo waterfall . We landed the dinghy near the river at the eastern head of L’Anse Hakaui. It was quite shallow and the surf was breaking across the river mouth so we had to row to a suitable dinghy landing.

Photo 1: Negotiating the river to the dinghy landing after crossing the bar

Photo 2: Inspiring Vista

Close behind the beach are the ruins of the old village and a church with some very old statues. We passed many ruined paepae (foundations of ancient houses) and some tikis in the valley.

Photo 3: Ancient Tiki

It is amazing that more than 20,000 people lived in this valley before the white men arrived. Our diseases wiped the population out and now 15 people live in this beautiful valley. There was an extensive aqua duct and preserved bone holes. The bone hole is where the inhabitants threw the bones of what they ate so that they could get any that they needed in the future for carving etc. The bone hole was also where they put prisoners or as a punishment hole like solitary confinement.

Photo 4: Bone Hole and Ruined Paepae

The high and narrow waterfall was cascading from the 610m (2000 ft) plateau to the valley floor below. There was little water running but it was well worth the effort to experience the awesome majestic vista which makes it the third highest waterfall in the world. The hike took us 1 hour 50 minutes each way and we were pleased with the time because most people we have spoken to took between 2 hours and 2 ½ hours.

Photo 5: Stephen looking for the snacks!

Photo 6: Where's the waterfall

We were the first hikers on the trail (and to the waterfall) this morning and were amazed that every metre on the trail there was a fresh yellow or rust hibiscus flower but we couldn’t find the trees. We decided that we would enjoy the mystery and called it the Yellow Hibiscus Road (instead of the Yellow Brick Road).

Photo 7: Yellow Hibiscus Road

We had to ford the fast running river a number of times and the going was muddy and very rocky. We think that the trail was ancient and the original and were surprised that it didn’t appear more well used considering how many yachts have visited during the “season” which is now coming to an end. The only way to see the waterfall is to anchor and hike along the track that we used. During the wet season it must be absolutely incredible.

Photo 8: The Waterfall will be Spectacular in the Wet Season

Ross enjoyed a swim in the cold water and explored the hidden areas behind the giant boulders. A Swiss couple off “Dilan” arrived while we were enjoying the waterfall and we passed many hikers on our way back. We were certainly happy that we had an early start and were back before the day got too hot.

Photo 9: Ross enjoying a swim

We had lunch and then raised the anchor for our return trip to Baie de Taiohae. Ross lost his hat leaving the anchorage and while Cyndy was going back to retrieve it Joanie off “Pickles” jumped into her dinghy and picked it up returned it to us. We met “Pickles” at Wreck Bay and Villamel in the Galapagos and been amused by their 4 children who do a “circus show” on the halyards every evening. They are being home schooled by Joanie and Guy and the halyard sessions are their treat for the day.

Photo 10: Morning at Baie de Taioa

We are taking a tour of the island tomorrow with an English speaking guide and are really looking forward to learning more about this beautiful place. Rose Corser from the museum has assured us that he is one of the best. We are hoping that he drives a 4 x 4 so that we don’t have to ride on the tray in the back like others we have seen.