Ile Nuku Hiva

On Friday 4th June, we had great sail to Ile Nuku Hiva. A nice beam reach...

Photo 1: Cyndy is enjoying the sail

This is the principle island of the Marquises and precipitously high with Takao the highest point at 1185 metres. Other heights along the northern coast give rise to many beautiful waterfalls. Baie de Taiohae is reputably the safest anchorage in the Marquises. A large white cross of crystalline rocks rises above the cliffs to the east. The bay holds a fascinating place in history for it was here that 23 year old Herman Melville jumped a whaling ship in 1842.

Photo 2: Salacia in Baie de Taiohae, Ile Nuku Hiva

We loaded fuel at the ship dock on the way in to the bay by putting the main anchor out and reversing in and taking a stern line ashore. Much easier than carting it by jerry cans and dinghy.

There are 37 yachts in the bay here. A lot of yachts that we met in Wreck Bay in the Galapagos are here so we have enjoyed catching up with them.

Photo 3: Baie de Taiohae, Ile Nuku Hiva

On Saturday we were up at 4am to go to the fruit and veg markets which run from 4.30am to 7.30am and only on a Saturday. Ursula off “Vagabond” and Don off “Liquid Courage” were the only other yachties crazy enough to be there. The fresh croissants and French pastries made the trip worthwhile. Then we were off to top up on groceries, white wine and beer at 7.30am.

Photo 4: A paddler moments after a giant ray leapt 2 -3 metres out of the water, only inches from his outrigger.

Rose Corser, a long time resident of the bay gave us a warm welcome when we visited her museum of Marquesan artifacts.

We continued our exploration today with a pleasant little sail to Baie Taioa which is well camouflaged. The opening to the bay is difficult to identify from seaward as the entrance points overlap. In the heavy surf today the entrance looked as though it was breaking right across so we consulted the charts and checked our navigation. It is a wonderful sheltered gem of a anchorage and we are looking forward to spending the evening here. It is also known as Daniel and Antoinette’s Bay, after the friendly Marquisan couple who have lived here for over 60 years.