Ile Raiatea and Ile Tahaa lie within the same coral reef about 20 miles west of Ile Huahine. Both are mountainous with spurs radiating from central ranges to the coast forming an indented shoreline. Raiatea is the religious and cultural centre of the Societies.
The surrounding reef is awash in some places and submerged in others. Eight passes lead through the reef around Raiatea and two into Tahaa. Deep and navigatable water between the reef and the islands makes it possible to travel entirely around Tahaa and about two thirds around Raiatea. Shoals and coral heads are scattered in the inner waters but the routed between them pose no difficulty with careful navigation.
We entered the lagoon at Passé Iriru and anchored at the head of Baie Faaroa. We launched the dinghy and did an interesting trip up the Aoppomau River. The entrance to the river is filled with fallen trees and logs and navigation was arduous.
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| Baie Faaroa |
We went for a dinghy ride through rainforest at the end of the anchorage this afternoon when the showers cleared and every was washed clean and fresh.
The locals were giving us directions around and through the fallen trees, stakes and other hazards at the entrance to the river. One told us to go around one way and then when we got there and couldn’t get through the debris another group told us to go back to where we had originally started. The group on the bank grew and we had quite an audience by the time we successfully navigated the river mouth.
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| Aoppomau River |
The ambient temperature was low so it was really pleasant and the rainforest smells were divine. There was a lot of colourful ginger, heliconias and bananas growing wild and there were many out riggers stored in homemade shelters. The stakes were a definite hazard and submerged trees at the entrance were a hazard and the little depth sounder was invaluable. We saw coconut crabs and an eel and a lot of guys in outriggers with fish traps or fishing. We even saw a father and daughter in an outrigger and the little girl was playing the flute and they had a boat load of wild bananas.
The bullets have now stopped and the anchorage is pleasant. Perhaps the weather front has now gone through and the weather tomorrow as we explore the rest of the anchorages will be fine and clear.
Our dinghy and outboard was stolen last night so it was an unexpected visit to Uturoa and the Gendarmes. We motored around the northern shores of Ile Raiatea past the airport. Once again we needed to get clearance from Airport control to proceed past the end of the runway. “The Moorings” charter fleet located at Moorings Carenage has kindly hired us a 3.4 metre inflatable with a 5 hp motor so we are off and running again. They have also given us the use of one of their moorings so that we could report the theft.
I guess that we were lucky that it was just the theft of the dinghy and its contents.
We had a pleasant lunch at a waterfront restaurant in Uturoa while we were waiting for the Gendarmerie to reopen at 2pm after siesta.
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| Uturoa Waterfront |
The Polynesian outrigger was anchored off the town much to our surprise and the musicians off the boat entertained us while we had lunch.
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| Outrigger |
It is gorgeous off Moorings Carenage but we wanted to explore so we continued down to Baie Pufau to anchor for the night. We dropped Dave off at the outside of the Passé Rautoanui with his surf board and he paddled happily over to the breaks. Naomi then took to the dinghy and motored out to bring Dave back and we went and anchored.
The reef was very shallow and the break was dangerous and even though Dave had a great time he came back missing some bark.
We have been exploring Ile Tahaa and snorkelling today. Great fun. We have picked up a mooring in Baie Hurepiti which belongs to Sophie’s Boutique. The use of the mooring is free provided that you buy something at the shop. We obliged and bought a sarong, some jam and vanilla. The bay is very safe but there is no coral.
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| Ile Tahaa |
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