Salacia: Arrival at Palmerston Island

Sunday 15^thAugust

We have had a rollicking sail and have done well over 220 n miles in 24 hours.

Our watch system is 1 hour on and 3 hours off so that Dian can get the feel of being on deck at night by herself while we are passage making.

For those who are interested in safety aspects of life aboard, we have a rule that you don’t leave the cockpit without your harness while you are on deck by yourself. These harnesses have inflatable life jackets built into them. Each crew member also wears a bag strapped to their waist with a strobe light and personal EBIRB in case they go overboard. We also have a MOM-A (Man overboard Module) which we activate immediately if someone goes overboard. It comprises of a danbuoy (inflatable strobe light pylon) and a life ring and a drogue anchor which drops out at the back of the yacht as soon the pin is pulled.

We also have a life sling on the pushput of the boat for recovery of someone in the water.

Of course, we have a very comprehensive first aid kit which covers all medical eventualities. Stephen and I have done specialised Marine 1^st Aid courses which included suturing and administering medications by needles and canulas. We leant to suture using chicken filets and to give needles by practicing on oranges.

An additional and crucial safety aspect is a communication “net” which is run by fellow cruisers. When we are making an ocean passage we “log in” to this net and our progress and position is monitored and recorded twice a day.

Monday 16^th August

It continues to be a pleasant sail and winds are oscillating between 10 – 15 knots or 20 – 25 knots. Salacia is dancing along, happy to be free from anchors or moorings. Dian is enjoying the sail and we have decided to stretch our watches out to 1 ½ hours on and 4 ½ hours off.

Tuesday 17^th August

While we were discussing what to have for brunch Ross caught a 1.55 metre Mahi Mahi. It was all hands on deck while we were getting this huge fish aboard and Ross put on his safety harness so that he wasn’t pulled overboard by the thrashing fish. We enjoyed a wonderful fish and chip lunch and we had Mahi Mahi Meniere with fresh salad for dinner.

Ross in harness preparing to land Mahi Mahi

Mahi Mahi landing

1.55m Mahi Mahi

Wednesday 18^th August

We arrived at Palmerston Island at dawn this morning. We called the atoll by VHF radio and we were told that we would be met by a boat and taken to our mooring after the church service. We were met by Edward whose family will be our host family during our stay. They have invited us to lunch today after we have cleared customs, immigration and quarantines. The access to the island is very difficult so Edward is ferrying us back and forth to Salacia. There is a very shallow, narrow channel and only someone with local knowledge would be able to get a small boat safely through it.

Dawn Approach to Palmerston

Arrival Palmerston Island at Dawn

Dian enjoying the dawn on our arrival at Palmerston Island

“Sea Mist”, an Oyster 56, has been with us for most of the trip from Bora Bora. They unfortunately blew out their “mast furling” mainsail so they will have to motor to Nuie for repairs. We were in close radio contact with her during our passage and we monitored her navigation tricolor during the night. She arrived here an hour after us. If there are no facilities in Niue they will have to motor to Tonga.

Skiting to Sea Mist about the catch

We had a wonderful seafood lunch of Mahi Mahi and Wahoo with our host family (Edward, Shirley, David and John).Then Edward showed us around the island. We took our laundry ashore and Shirley kindly washed it for us.

Our first lunch on Palmerston Island with Edward, Shirley and family

The hotplate was returned to another family after Shirley had BBQ'ed our seafood lunch

67 people live on the island and we were intrigued by the matriarch, Tuareni. She had 14 children and talking to her about her life was fascinating. She shared her stories with us and we were entranced with her reminiscences. Despite her age she is still very involved in island life, whether it be filleting the fish, feeding the pigs or gathering the eggs laided by the free range chickens. Even the chickens are fed on coconut. The very large pigs were in cages, but the piglets were allowed to free range.

A sow with her piglets

Pigs are rainsed on the island and their diet is Coconuts and Coconut milk. I guess you don't need to marinate them!

There is a lovely school and we were introduced to the Head Mistress Yvonne and her 2 staff. 29 children of all ages attend the school. School starts at 8am and the younger children finish at 1.30pm and the older student at 2.30pm. The school uses a Home School Program out of the US so each child and each age group can work at their own pace.

We were excited to buy T Shirts with beautiful graphics for a turtle which had been done by Yvonne’s niece.

There is a church on the island with a permanent Minister of the Cook Island Uniting Church. There are church services 3 days a week. On Wednesday and Friday mornings at 6.30pm, and there are 3 services on Sunday at 6.30am, 10am and 2pm. After church on Sunday the islanders have to clean up an area of the island.

Music plays a major part in island life and as Edward showed us the island he had his bango and entertained us with island songs. When we joined another family for a cool drink a group of islands joined us with their guitars and the atmosphere and music was perfect.

Music is a large part of island life and soon the number of musicians had tripled

We saw William Marster's house that he built from ship wrecks and also his grave. These people are very proud of their english heritage.

William Marster's Grave

Edward and his son John showing us William Marster's house that he made from materials from ship wrecks

Export of fish is the main source of income and this supplements their government subsidy. Visiting yachts use a barter system of anything that they can spare e.g. tools, diesel, outboard motor fuel, canned foods, cleaning materials, fresh fruit and vegetables. This is in return for a taxi service to and from your boat, meals with your host family, use of a mooring, and general hospitality.