Return to Ile Tahaa.

It is wet and windy today and after checking our weather provider “Clearpoint” we decided to leave Bora-Bora and return to Ile Tahaa.

We had a dry passage  to windward in 15 to 20 knots with one reef in the mainsail. As we approached Passé Paipai the wind strengthened to +25 knots so we were glad that we had made the decision to leave Bora-Bora while the weather was kind.

We sailed into Hurepiti Bay and picked up a mooring belonging to Sophie’s Boutique as we had done previously with Naomi and David.

Salacia at Hurepiti Bay

After a wet and windy night we took Cherie ashore to visit the Boutique.  The weather was forecast to get much worse over the next few days so next morning we sailed to Taravana Yacht Club and again picked up a mooring.

Cherie at Sophie's Boutique

On Friday we returned the hire dinghy to “The Mooring” and picked up our new dinghy and outboard. 

Cherie and Stephen arriving in the new dinghy

With the weather deteriorating we returned to Taravana Yacht Club and booked a land based tour of the island for the next day.

Sunset at Taravana Yacht Club

We thoroughly enjoyed the tour which included a visit to a Vanilla plantation and we heard all about this fascinating orchid plant whose flower must be married by hand to produce its precious fruit.

Vanilla pods waiting to be dried and graded

Vanilla Flower

Pearl farms have recently been built here as the lagoon water is ideal for black pearl farming. Along with vanilla and coconut oil, this activity has, in a few years, become a major resource of this quiet island. Its 4500 islanders are spread over 8 villages which are decorated with flower trees and are well maintained.

Cherie and Stephen enjoying a joke

The road to Mt Puurauti was slippery and dangerous as the 4WD climbed to Vaitoetoe Pass for a panoramic view of the islands 67km of coastline. The view of the neighbouring bays is breathtaking and the drive through gorgeous rainforests was well worthwhile.

View from Vaitoetoe Pass

Another photo of the view from Vaitoetoe Pass

Naomi & Dave Leave and Cherie Arrives

The last day of Naomi and David’s holiday with us was calm and sunny. They jumped in the dinghy to have a last snorkel in the coral garden. Sadly there wasn’t enough time for Dave to have a surf but he watched the surfers with envy as we drove to the dock in Vaitape so that they could catch a shuttle boat to the airport.

The final snorkelling site

Our other daughter Cherie arrived an hour earlier so it was a very quick family catch up before we had to say good bye. 

Cherie arrives!

We hired a car to do all of the transfers from Salacia at the Yacht Club to the commercial town dock. After waving goodbye to Nome and Dave we explored the island with Cherie and took advantage of the car to have dinner at the intercontinental and to watch their island entertainment.

Waving goodbye to David and Naomi

Ile Bora-Bora

We got an early start for Ile Bora-Bora and were blown away as the moody spires gained definition and the many incredible colours as the water became visible. The spectacular volcanic peaks surrounded by an extensive lagoon of varied hues of blue make this one of the world's most beautiful islands.

Leaving Tahaa early in the morning

Sailing towards Ile Bora Bora

Passé Teavanui is the only entrance to the lagoon. Located on the western side it is wide, clearly marked and easily traversed.

Looking at a pod of dolphins that accompanied the boat through Passe Teavanui

We anchored at an idyllic spot in 8 metres of water  on the western side of Ile Toopua. It is a first rate area for snorkelling and the kids took full advantage. 

David Snorkelling at Ile Toopua

We decided to circumnavigate Toopua and Topua-Ita and picked our way successfully through the bommies and very narrow passes with David keeping a great lookout on the bow.

Circumnavigating Toopua and Topua-Ita

We then headed over to Baie de Povai and followed the coastline north past the town of Vaitape to Baie Faanui and picked up the last mooring available  at Bora-Bora Yacht Club. After discussion with William, who laid the moorings, and the owners of an aluminium yacht from Townsville we decided that the yachts could potentially swing too close if the wind dropped out. William kindly moved the Yacht Club tenders off another mooring to give us pole position outside the yacht club.

Bora-Bora Yacht Club is located directly behind Passé Teavanui and the hospitality of the owners and staff is wonderful.

Naomi made friends with some of the children and lost her shoes to one little “Imelda” who didn’t want to give them back when the car arrived to take us to a wonderful seafood dinner.

Ile Raiatea and Ile Tahaa

Ile Raiatea and Ile Tahaa lie within the same coral reef about 20 miles west of Ile  Huahine. Both are mountainous with spurs radiating from central ranges to the coast forming an indented shoreline. Raiatea is the religious and cultural centre of the Societies.

The surrounding reef is awash in some places and submerged in others. Eight passes lead through the reef around Raiatea and two into Tahaa. Deep and navigatable water between the reef and the islands makes it possible to travel entirely around Tahaa and about two thirds around Raiatea. Shoals and coral heads are scattered in the inner waters but the routed between them pose no difficulty with careful navigation.

We entered the lagoon at Passé Iriru and anchored at the head of Baie Faaroa. We launched the dinghy and did an interesting trip up the Aoppomau River. The entrance to the river is filled with fallen trees and logs and navigation was arduous. 

Baie Faaroa

We went for a dinghy ride through rainforest  at the end of the anchorage this afternoon when the showers cleared and every was washed clean and fresh.

The locals were giving us directions around and through the fallen trees, stakes and other hazards at the entrance to the river. One told us to go around one way and then when we got there and couldn’t get through the debris another group told us to go back to where we had originally started. The group on the bank grew and we had quite an audience by the time we successfully navigated the river mouth.

Aoppomau River

The ambient temperature was low so it was really pleasant and the rainforest smells were divine. There was a lot of colourful ginger, heliconias and bananas growing wild and there were many out riggers stored in homemade shelters. The stakes were a definite hazard and submerged trees at the entrance  were a hazard and the little depth sounder was invaluable. We saw coconut crabs and an eel and a lot of guys in outriggers with fish traps or fishing. We even saw a father and daughter in an outrigger and the little girl was playing the flute and they had a boat load of wild bananas.

The bullets have now stopped and the anchorage is pleasant. Perhaps the weather front has now gone through and the weather tomorrow as we explore the rest of the anchorages will be fine and clear.

Our dinghy and outboard was stolen last night so it was an unexpected visit to Uturoa  and the Gendarmes. We motored around the northern shores of Ile Raiatea past the airport. Once again we needed to get clearance from Airport control to proceed past the end of the runway. “The Moorings” charter fleet located at Moorings Carenage has kindly hired us a 3.4 metre inflatable with a 5 hp motor so we are off and running again. They have also given us the use of one of their moorings so that we could report the theft.

I guess that we were lucky that it was  just the theft of the dinghy and its contents.

We had a pleasant lunch at a waterfront restaurant in Uturoa while we were waiting for the Gendarmerie to reopen at 2pm after siesta. 

Uturoa Waterfront

The Polynesian outrigger was anchored off the town much to our surprise and the musicians off the boat entertained us while we had lunch.

Outrigger

It is gorgeous off Moorings Carenage but we wanted to explore so we continued down to Baie Pufau to anchor for the night. We dropped Dave off at the outside of the Passé Rautoanui  with his surf board and he paddled happily over to the breaks. Naomi then took to the dinghy and motored out to bring Dave back and we went and anchored.

The reef was very shallow and the break was dangerous and even though Dave had a great time he came back missing some bark.

We have been exploring  Ile Tahaa  and snorkelling today. Great fun. We have picked up a mooring in Baie Hurepiti which belongs to Sophie’s Boutique. The use of the mooring is free provided that you buy something at the shop. We obliged and bought a sarong, some jam and vanilla. The bay is very safe but there is no coral.

Ile Tahaa

 We are  going to Bora Bora this morning early as soon as it starts to get light and I am sure that we will enjoy the fabled beauty!!!

Huahine

We had a great sail to Huahine overnight. There were a lot of boats around which kept us all on the ball during our watch. That is except for David, who didn’t see any other boats. 

The watch system we used was one hour on and 3 hours off.  The kids are enjoying the time on the boat and sails like this morning are reinforcing their love of yachting. Nome definitely hasn’t lost her driving skills and Dave enjoyed surfing a 53 ft board.

It was an exciting reef passage in strong winds and big swells at the entrance to the lagoon.  A little spice at the entrance was just what was needed to top off the sail. Mind you my arms feel as if they have been  wrenched out of the sockets !!!!

It is raining here at present. Good for kicking back with our books and a cup of tea .... Nome made  a  delicious lunch using the last of our bread for toasted sandwiches so I am presently baking. It is a soy, linseed, wheatgrain recipe and it was very popular last time I made it.

At Anchor in Huahine

Moorea

Tuesday 20^th July

We had a fast beam reach to Ile Moorea in 20 knots in a counter- clockwise direction around the island. 

View of  Moorea from Papeete

Moorea is approximately 17 miles from Tahiti.

Dave at the helm during the sail to Moorea 

With the exception of Tetiaroa and the smaller islands, all of the islands in the Society Islands are high, volcanically formed and surrounded by coral reefs. Coral formations are detached from the island leaving a passage with sufficient water for a vessel to travel. The worn remnants of once tall volcanos are now composed of jagged, rocky towers and rugged, grass and shrub-covered mountainous terrain. The climate is ideal making it the favoured base for all the major explorers of the Pacific, beginning with the Polynesians.

The islands lie in the southeast trade wind belt, with winds from the southeast to east predominating. Trades are strongest in the winter months of July to September. Gales however, are infrequent. The currents follow the direction of the wind, except near the coasts. With the dominating easterly wind driving it , the currents run west  at about 10 to 15 miles a day.

We entered Baie de Cook on Moorea through the well marked Passé Avaroa. The spire of Mont Mouaputa is at the end of the bay and a hole in it resembles a patch of snow and can be seen from the north and northwest.  It had a muddy bottom and wasn’t what we were expecting so we had lunch there and motored around to paradise at Baie d’Opunohu through Passé Tareu.

Baie de Cook 

It is absolutely gorgeous and we  anchored in a lagoon inside the reef at the entrance to Baie D’Opunohu and it was close to paradise.  Looking over the side of Salacia we could count the grains of sand in 8 metre. It is the clearest water we have found. There is a white beach within swimming distance and also some great bommies for snorkelling.

Baie D’Opunohu at Sunset

The are several super yachts in the main bay. The yacht “Athena” is 298ft. It was lit up like a Xmas tree last night.

Athena

There was also one of the most beautiful yachts we had ever seen. Erica XII is flag blue like Salacia but much larger at 172ft.

Erica XII

We are doing an overnight sail to Huahine  tonight. I am really looking forward to it.

Dian (Jones) had her 61^st   today and we loved phoning her as a surprise. Ross was making sure that his special girl had a great birthday.

Naomi and David arrive in Tahiti

Sunday 18^th July

Our  daughter Naomi and her husband David arrived at Salacia at 1.30am. The taxi company has an arrangement with the marina and drives right down the dock to the yacht. After we had chatted and caught up on all of the news, they explored Salacia. It was great to finally show them the yacht that we had dreamed of for so long. Naomi particularly liked the similarities to  our J44 “Phoenix”.

Right in front of Salacia at the Marina Taina  is a gorgeous lagoon with wonderful coral, clams, sea anenomes and a wide variety of fish.  Early the next morning the kids  went for a snorkel on the fringing reef and Dave took advantage of the surf at the pass. We did our final provisioning at Carrefour Supermarket which includes restaurants, a pharmacy, doctor and numerous other facilities. It is only 10 minutes walk from the marina and you can even take the trolley as there is a trolley dock at the marina. We had a lovely meal at the Italian Restaurant at the Marina ready for an early start the next morning.

There were no dramas leaving the Marina. The Marina staff always check that the bow lines are not tangled when a yacht is ready to leave. They send a diver down to check the anchor and lines and had to untangle the bow lines from the catamaran next door. We didn’t even drift close to the boats on either side as we were motoring out to pick up our anchor when leaving so it was a piece of cake.

Cyndy at the helm as we leave the Marina

We were delighted with the facilities and service at the Marina Taina and thoroughly recommend it to all.

View of the Marina at Pass Taapuna

We exited the lagoon via Pass  Taapuna which was only a mile south of the Marina. The pass is 90m wide between the reefs awash although it is actually narrower because of the shoals on each side so vessels should favor the northern side.