Back in Australia! 1500nm and five weeks since we left Yorkeys Knob on 14th September.
We left Dumaga Bay on Tuesday 15th and exited the outer reef via Johnsons pass. The wind was kind to us with 10-15 knots from the East. Second day the wind increased to 20knots but stayed ESE so we had a great sail. We arrived at East Diamond Islet on the morning of the 3rd day (360nm from Dumaga bay).
This was such an unexpected delight and so we stayed over night. We went ashore and wandered through all of the bird life (Frigates, Cormorants, Gannets and Boobies) and countered hundreds of green turtles in the water next to the beach, waiting for darkness to come up the beach to lay their eggs. The beach was beautiful with no previous footprints.
The islet (17 26S, 151 04E) is on the western side of Diamond Passage (Lihou reef on the eastern side) which is a main thoroughfare for bulk cargo ships. We hadn't heard of the Islet until mentioned casually by one of the other rally yachts. Certainly a very special place.
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| Bird life at East Diamond Islet |
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| Boobie at East Diamond Islet |
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| East Diamond Islet |
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| Green Turtle East Diamond Islet |
We then left East Diamond Islet and continued on to Mackay via Hydrographers passage through the barrier reef. We did not want to arrive over the weekend and pay overtime charges for Quarantine, so stayed a night at Scawfell Island on Saturday night. Came into Mackay Marina sunday night and cleared customs and quarantine formalities on Monday morning. No problems, all went smoothly. Both Customs and Quarantine officers were very good.
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| Sunset at Scawful Island |
During our return voyage we had time to reflect on our visit to the Louisiades as it was certainly a very special area.
Our reflections include:
- Happy, polite, generous and caring people with a strong commitment to family and community.
- The majority of the people are industrious workers; fishing, farming, building and cleaning to ensure survival with few material possessions.
- Memories of being woken by the laughter of children playing on the beach at dawn.
- Seeing the children of all ages caring for each other and playing together often while singing………the gifts of balls from the dim dims were greatly appreciated.
- Hearing groups of children singing melodiously as they completed their walk home from school……….often a long way to another village.
- A great diversity of smiles from beautiful white teeth to red stained mouths, teeth and gums from chewing betel nut.
- There is a high level of motor skill development in all the children from a very young age.
- We were often visited by young children paddling narrow canoes out to the yachts to trade precious items such as a fresh egg for a book or a shirt; always resulting in big smiles and thank you.
- English is now taught in schools with a high ratio of children to teachers.
- Schools have high expectations for learning and behaviour; “intelligent people want to learn, but stupid people are full of ignorance”.
- No overweight adults or children were sighted.
- A strong emphasis to maintain “culture”.
- Sailing the traditional “Sailau’s” is the main means of transport even over long distances taking more than a day with no navigational instruments.
- Questioning if “our” efforts to help are in the right direction……….conflict with maintaining culture.
- Contrast between villages that are visited by the rally yachts and other boats on a regular basis and the villages that are rarely visited by outsiders. The most obvious contrast is the marked difference in lighting of the villages at night as those not visited are dark without solar lights however these villagers will be out before dawn to fish in their canoes and sailaus.
- Mothers appear to be very young and have a number of young children early………families appear to be well nourished.
- Sailaus and dugout canoes are still made in the traditional way with lashed outriggers attached……….Paneati Island is the major supplier of the timber and building.
- Traditional dress (grass skirts) is maintained for dancing and ceremonies…………the dancing style is common throughout the islands and learnt at a very young age.
Beautiful places with smiling young faces living from the land and the sea
Traditional villages scattered on beaches ……… few old faces we see
Coconuts and crayfish, bananas and reef fish, an idyllic life it seems
With sailing the main form of transport up here I think they are living a dream
Thats it for this voyage!!!!
