Tuesday, December 7, 2010

Aore to Brisbane

22-26 November 2010

Saturday morning, November 22, anchored in the Segond Channel at Aore, we were awoken at 0600 by a radio call from Liquid Courage. Don had just received weather advice that would postpone their planned departure, and change our planned route to Brisbane. The STCZ was going to cause a Squash zone in northern section of the large High Pressure that was influencing our weather. This would cause stronger South Easterlies between Vanuatu and Australia, with the possibility of a developing Low to the north of our planned route.

We decided to depart immediately and “Do a Runner” direct to Brisbane, thus avoiding the worst of the strong winds. Our departure was slowed by our big Bruce anchor tangled in the anchor chain after moving backwards and forwards in the tide in the Segond Channel for two weeks.

Cyndy driving us down the channel between Aore and Espiritu Santo

A passing salute to Geoff and Lee on their jetty and we were off.

Geoff and Lee waving us good bye as we leave Aore Island


By the time we had cleared the islands we had the full main and jib flying in a steady South Easterly, making good speed straight down the Rhumb Line to Brisbane.

We pulled in our first reef that afternoon and our second just after dark in the strengthening trade winds.
That first night of the passage was quite uncomfortably hot and humid below because with water constantly flowing across the deck all hatches and windows were secured, and would remain so until we entered Moreton Bay.

Salacia was in her element on a fast beam reach tracking beautifully on Autopilot and handling the beam seas with ease.

Our watch system of hour and a half on and four and a half off was working beautifully in the bright Moonlight.

Next day we prepared the third reef and pulled it in before nightfall without a significant drop in boat speed.
The jib had been reefed to a pocket handkerchief and Salacia was very comfortable with the tiny rig flying along in the now thirty plus knots of ESE. The boat sounds were quieter and the motion was easier but Salacia danced along with the bit in her teeth. What a privilege to be able to reduce sail like this and still have amazing boat speeds. We carried this rig right through the passage until the last day when the breeze abated enough to carry our full rig again.

Wind strength for most of the passage was varying between low twenties and mid thirties and Salacia was romping along in the six metre swell with confused and often breaking seas atop the swell.

The occasional beam sea would break over the top of the dodger and give the cockpit a thorough dousing, but Salacia was basically dry below except for the water entering from the Companionway when these seas broke over the decks.

The currents were moving in eddies, with a northerly flow indicated by rougher seas and a lower sea surface temperature of 23 degrees Celsius.

With the water temperature of 25 the current flow was in our favour, running south, resulting in smoother seas and higher ground speed in the 8 to 10 knot range.

We reeled off 200 nautical miles day after day, with Salacia entering the NW Channel at Caloundra just over 5 days after leaving Aore.

Customs formalities were very friendly and efficient at Rivergate at 2300 that night, followed by a celebratory drink after Salacia’s more than 11,000 nautical mile crossing of the mighty Pacific Ocean.

Ronnie taking down the quarantine flag after we cleared with Customs, Immigration and Quarantine in Brisbane
We think that is fitting to retire our much travelled (and much mended) Australian Flag which our good friend Murray Kornweibel gave us before the Fremantle to Bali Yacht Race for our UFO 34 in Perth in 1982-3.

Our much mended Australian Flag will now be retired

We are trying to get back to real life after our adventures of the last 12 months. We are already pinching ourselves !!!

DID WE REALLY JUST SAIL ACROSS THE PACIFIC OCEAN ?

Last Days in Vanuatu

20 November 2010

After an idyllic time in Vanuatu we are leaving for Brisbane at lunchtime today.

How many people can you fit into a Panga

There are strong winds predicted and we have cancelled our plans to go to Huon and Chesterfield reefs rather than be weather bound for 10 days. It is disappointing not to go to the reefs with Don and Devin off “Liquid Courage”.

Don and Devin off "Liquid Courage"

Our gorgeous land in paradise

Ross and Ron have been wonderful and have been building fences and putting down moorings.

Ross with his splice on the mooring line

Stephen and Ross getting ready to drop the mooring

They completed the fence yesterday afternoon and it is now definitely bullock proof.  Once again the people that we have met have been fantastic. The hospitality on Aore Island has been second to none.

Geoff and Lee have taken us under their wing have been absolutely fantastic and Geoff has been working tirelessly to organise and facilitate. If it wasn’t for Geoff we would be still scratching our heads and wondering how to navigate our way through the system. Geoff, Lee and Don off “Liquid Courage” have been diving on our mooring and it is no mean feat to dive to 42+ metres and still be able to think straight. There is only 7 minutes working time on the bottom and oxygen narcosis is a real problem.

Lee and Geoff preparing to dive

Geoff has also been organising and ferrying commercial divers, surveyors and fence builders and doing a million other tasks on our behalf. Geoff is a definitely a mover and shaker!


Geoff  contemplating the latest problem
Putting the mooring down

Alan and Deb, Chris and Christine, Bridget and Ken, Roger and Mandy have all rolled out the red carpet for us and we thoroughly enjoyed their company. Everyone has donated plants to our new garden and Geoff is organising a hibiscus hedge. Here you just put the cuttings straight into the ground and they take off.
Last night's sunset on Aore Island

Wednesday, November 3, 2010

More on Vanuatu

1 November 2010

Vanuatu is an amazing cruising ground and the people still live in their traditional villages. We fell in love with these fantastic friendly people last year when we cruised New Caledonia and Vanuatu on our J130 “Ragtime”.  

The town of Luganville on Espirito Santo is the 2nd largest in Vanuatu after Port Villa. Even in the 12 months since we have last been here we can see major changes in the town. The hardware store would do any city or town proud and there is a new Bank in a lovely new building. Aore Island is across an approximately 1 ½ mile passage from Luganville. The passage is very deep and protected which makes it safe from a tsunami accept perhaps on the eastern end of the island, although this is also well protected from the surrounding islands.

Chart plotter showing where Salacia is moored.


Expect a warm welcome from The Aore Island Resort. They cater for cruising boats and have convenient moorings for rent  in front of the Resort. This is extremely convenient because the water is deep and most vessels don’t like to anchor in 30+ metres.

The jetty is situated such that a yacht can tie up to load water from the resort, provisions or for repairs.
The Resort ferry takes guests and sailors over to Luganville 6 times a day by timing your trip you can provision and be back on your yacht in 2 hours. There is a good fresh fruit and vegetable market in Luganville as well as a number of well stocked supermarkets.

All of the resort facilities are open to yachts including the laundry service and the 4* restaurant and bar.

The diving in the clear water is fantastic and there are well equipped dive shops. Dive on the legendary ship “The Coolidge” and also the famous “Million Dollar Point” where, at the end of the war, the Americans drove all of their tanks, jeeps, trucks and other equipment into the ocean. Snorkelling on the sight is almost as good as diving on it.

Aore Island Resort

31 October 2010

We had a great night at the Aore Island Resort last night good friends and 2 wonderful people people who are over on the island building a new school pro bono.

We met Lee and Geoff this morning to walk our block of land and for me to ear mark the trees that are to “go”. I am getting rid of the native Hibiscus trees and the breadfruit trees. Both have shallow roots so I was not going to risk them falling and causing damage.

There is a track cut right down the side of the block which was done by the Americans in WW2. It will be great for access to the beach from the road and will provide access to storage under the deck of the potential house. It would have been a lot of work cutting it to the water line so we are very pleased with this.The proposed holiday house site is high, will get breezes from both directions and will have remarkable views.

Walking the block led to a trip in Geoff’s WW2 jeep to the other end of the island looking for engine blocks for the mooring . The boys are loving this -  the Huck Finn and burning around in the jeep. WW2 Jeeps are the preferred transport on the island and Stephen’s eye’s are lighting up!!

We looked at the rear end of a Massey Fergusson tractor to see if it would be suitable for the mooring. We passed a number of WW2 buildings sprinkled around the jungle which were used to store ammunition and which were camouflaged by soil and grass. They were not built in a line to stop the Japanese from doing a bombing run. There was even a small one used for storing detonators.

We have just finished a 1st pass at the waterfront to see what the depth profile will be for the new mooring. Ross is plotting the data as I write.

We have just had word that the Profke’s (whose mooring we are on) will let us have the 2 engine blocks that they have. So that means that to date we have a tractor rear end and 3 engine blocks and we are waiting to hear about the other tractor rear end.

There is a new development proposed for the eastern end of the island and it will include a 6* hotel, a 200 boat marina, golf course, 200 house sites and a hospital for plastic surgery.

Arrival in Vanuatu

28 October 2010


The wind has settled down to a lovely 20 – 25 knot trade wind and we are  sailing along with a poled out jib and full main. We are getting into the passage making routine. We have been having lovely meals of the Wahoo that we caught.
 Stephen enjoying the sail

 29 October 2010

The wind went gone easterly and we couldn’t make our original course to the north of Ambrym Island – Vanuatu. We then decided to shoot for the passage  between Ambrym Island and  Paama Island.

We made this course and had a pleasant sail with the wind still 18 – 20 kts and running with a normal jib (not poled out). Cyndy noticed that the tang on the boom is moving more than it should so Ross rigged a preventer around the boom in case it does break.

Ambrym is a live volcano and the ash and smoke are amazing.
Ambrym’s smoking caldera
 As we sail past the west coast of the island the yacht was covered with a fine film of volcanic ash.
The Volcano cast a bushfire like haze over the western side of Ambrym Island
 The wind dropped out and if we wanted to get to Luganville, Espirito Santo in time to clear immigration, customs and quarantine we needed to start the motor. Fortunately with the prop on the motor working efficiently we can motor at over 9 knots.

A tropical down pour greeted us in Luganville as we anchored Salacia on the western side of the customs wharf and even the locals were laughing at us looking like drowned rats as we cleared with authorities.

Vanuatu flag and the quarantine flag flying
We tied up to a friend’s mooring on Aore Island and had a great evening catching up with Geoff and Lee, and Roger and Mandy.

Lee had prepared a delicious three course meal and we were entertained by the waterfalls of the torrential downpour pouring off the roof of their beautiful house.
  
30 October 2010

The morning was perfect with no wind, the rain had also washed Salacia clean of the ash from the volcano and the landscape smells fresh, clean and perfect.
View west down the passage between Aore and Espiritu Santo

 We shopped at the Hardware and went to visit Roger and Mandy’s block of land where they are building a house and poured the slab yesterday.
Stephen and Ross off the jetty in Luganville shopping by dinghy
Thankfully, the slab survived the rain last night.  Stephen and Ross were enthralled by Roger's "Willies 1942 WW2 Amercian jeep". Both boys took it for a burn and one is now at the top of Stephen’s wish list. When Roger was restoring it he was delighted to find a genuine WW2 American Hard hat under the back seat.
Ross playing in Roger's "Willies 1942 WW2 Amercian jeep"


Departing Fiji for Vanuatu

We have had fun hanging out with Don and Devon from "Liquid Courage". Ross arrived back on board on Sunday evening while we were all having drinks. He was an hour early at the marina gate because we didn't know about Daylight Savings in Fiji which started at midnight on Saturday.

 24 October 2010

Cyndy, Stephen and Ross joined Don and Devon aboard Liquid Courage for drinks Sunday evening, then a delightful meal at the Fiji Restaurant, with a local band and vocalists.

 Monday was provisioning day before our departure Tuesday, so Shalen from Yacht Help drove us up to Lautoka, to provision.

We went through the formalities of adding Ross to the crew list with immigration, aided by Shalen's friends, in record time, then Customs and shopping.

The Supermarket and the Markets were clean and well stocked and provided us with all the necessary provisions.
Even the Liquor Stores had a good range of wines.

Visited Port Vuda on the return journey and lunched overlooking the Marina entrance and ocean in very pleasant surroundings.
Quite a few yachts were laid up on the hard in the marina grounds for the cyclone season.
They were sitting on tyres on the ground with their keels in a trench, and looked secure enough to ride out the storms.

Drinks at Lulus in the evening where we met Ursula again, and weren't Don and Devon surprised to see their past crew member on Liquid Courage. Ursula now has the diving bug and is working on her instructors accreditation.
We joined Don and Devon for dinner at the seafood restaurant for our last night in Fiji.

There is a very good choice of eating places within a short walk from Salacia in Port Denison, and Cyndy and Stephen have tried most of them.

Departed Port Denarau at 0900 Tuesday morning bound for Luganville on Espiritu Santo in Vanuatu, and motored until 1500 when there was enough wind to sail.

Tuesday night was squally with showers and Easterly winds in the low 30's, so great progress was made.

27 October 2010

 Wednesday turned into a sparkling warm sunny day with ESE winds in the low 20's, so we are cruising at about 10 knots downwind and on course.

Cyndy and Stephen cooked a beautiful mushroom omelette, which was just about to be served when Ross hooked a fish. The metre long Wahoo was quickly landed and Stephen attached the tail rope so that we could bleed it while we were enjoying the omelette.

The fillets are safely in the freezer and a fish meal awaits tonight; great life this cruising.

Musket Cove

23 October 2010

Next day we left Nabora Point bright and early, south bound for Musket Cove, which we had heard about from a lot of yachts. As you can see from the chart we had to keep a close eye on navigation because of the prevalence of dangerous reefs.
Some tricky navigation required

Wind was 5 – 10 knots and we were expecting it to strengthen over night.  However, as we negotiated the narrow channels around Malolo Island, the wind had strengthened to 25 knots so we decided to anchor off the resort which was very protected. We enjoyed it so much here that we stayed for 2 nights.
 Salacia anchored at Malolo Island

The Resort on Malolu Island

Sunset off Malolo Island


The moon over Malolo Resort
  
This morning we returned to Port Denarau to refuel and restock Salacia for our passage to Vanuatu.